Do you know the way to San Jose?
I’ve been away so long
I may go wrong and lose my way
–Burt Bacharach/Hal David
Whew, what a day! This past Sunday David, Alan, Nancy, and I did the dirty and rode all the way to San Jose. When all is said and done our foursome survived a 76-mile day, some with more grace than others.
SF to SJ is a concoction of David Goldsmith whose eyes light up whenever he opines about this ride. He just loves this ride and has led it many times for the club. That he worked at various locations on the Midpeninsula over the years means he has ridden his bike from SF down the Midpeninsula and taken Caltrain back a zillion times. But instead of getting tired of it, his commutes have only made his affection for the ride grow. When no one stepped up to lead this ride for the Winter/Spring series, David stepped forward even though he’s been back on the bike for less than two months. And he finished the ride with aplomb!
The ride name ‘SF to SJ’ describes the ride succinctly. However there are a myriad of possibilities cycling to San Jose and all of them involve getting through a bottleneck of sorts around Daly City and South San Francisco. There just are not good ways for road cyclists that don’t involve lots of traffic. This version of SF to SJ uses Skyline Boulevard. Two other main ways are the Bay Trail and El Camino. Although the Bay Trail might involve fewer dangerous interactions with cars, it’s also less direct and slower; even worse you’re stuck on busy suburban streets for almost the entire route. Another option is El Camino, which is fine if you don’t mind riding on a busy arterial amidst a lot of cars, a lot of stop lights, and you like dodging car doors being flung open willynilly. David’s route settles on Skyline even though the section just south of SF is a high speed getaway route for cars. Eventually you are able to get off Skyline and travel adjacent to or on SF Water property, and the “rural” suburbs of Woodside, Stanford, and Los Altos are snug up against the hills and open space and feel less urbanized. David forgoes a direct route to the San Jose Caltrain station, which would put you in some serious car hell in Cupertino and Santa Clara, by deviating into the hills above Stevens Creek Reservoir and Mt. Eden before descending back to the flats. After some suburban crawling in Saratoga and Los Gatos he cleverly avoids more suburbia by taking the multi-use path paralleling Los Gatos Creek all the way from Los Gatos to San Jose. All told the route has about 4,000 feet of climbing but it’s almost entirely short rollers over almost 80 miles, so this is my no means a ‘climby’ route.
Once in San Jose you can head to Ron Diridon Station to catch Caltrain back to San Francisco or a little bit further north to the Berryessa BART station if you need to get to the East Bay.
I’m wondering if SF to SJ has had its heyday. There was a time when it attracted more participants probably because of the novelty and the sense of accomplishment of doing such a long ride in the middle of the central Bay Area. Like the Death Ride, SF to SJ was a ‘feat’ but now it’s just part of the background noise. But it’s an interesting—I hesitate to use the word ‘nice’—break from riding in Marin and if you get into trouble, you’re never far from a bike shop, a Starbucks, or any other amenity that will either save you or make your plight more enjoyable.
Alan, Nancy and I joined David. Alan is getting ready for ALC so another long ride under his belt was just more grist for the mill. Nancy, presumably like me, is trying to recover some shape, although she is still eyeing the Chico Wildflower as her next stunt. Why did I do this ride? Under other circumstances I would not have considerered it but it was well-timed. I had been planning to redo the 1985 AIDS Bike-A-Thon route on my own since this its 40th anniversary would be on April 6. But I haven’t been able to get ready for it the way I would like. Plus, I’m much older now and I haven’t done a true one-hundred mile route in probably 15 or 20 years. So that has been tabled for now. Since I had done a couple of 60-milers and a 70-miler this spring, I was ready to step up, so SF to SJ fit the bill since it would be 80ish miles from my home.
If you live in SF the overall day is simple: do the ride, catch Caltrain back home. But I had to get from the East Bay to SF and back. I had to cycle to BART, take BART to the City, ride to the start, then do the ride. After the ride it was Caltrain to Millbrae, transfer to BART, return to the East Bay, and then ride home. It ended up being a 13-hour day for me and I arrived home after dark.
I had done this ride only once before, in 2014. That was a misadventure: I was unfamiliar with the route, my Garmin died midway, and I cramped badly after it died and the group took off without me. I had to struggle to keep someone in sight praying I wouldn’t get lost. It was a hot summer day to boot. By Los Gatos I was toast from cramps, heat, and dehydration and only my reptilian brain was still functioning enough to get me to Caltrain.
That experience plus struggling all spring to get back into shape left me very wary of doing this ride. At least now I have a better Garmin with a longer battery life. I also set my goal to go very conservatively even if people took off without me. I now drink electrolyte fluid instead of plain water and am more conscientious about drinking. I also planned to drink pickle juice prophylactically to stave off cramps.
I had to leave the house at 6:50 AM to make it to Peet’s for the 8 AM departure. BART is pretty empty on an early Saturday morning. That gave me plenty of time to brood over what sorry fate would befall me this time. This year David wanted to head out Golden Gate Park and check out the new Sunset Dunes Park. That was going to be a lot nicer than in 2014 when we cycled through the Mission and and Outer Mission to catch Skyline.
We weren’t sure if Sunset Dunes would even be open to cyclists given that it is still a work-in-progress. Also the City’s sand erosion project had just started up at Ocean Beach and sections of the Great Highway are supposedly closed. But it was open and there were a lot of people enjoying the cool beach breeze and morning overcast. What will this park look like in a year? Right now it’s pretty urban and scruffy; and there really isn’t a need for two two-lane roads through the park! We rode up the Great Highway Extension even though technically it’s closed, skidding over numerous small piles of sand. I was thankful for having wider tires!
Even when I lived in SF I rarely rode Skyline out of the city. In the ‘80s it was a hell pit of fast cars and innumerable random piles of broken beer and wine bottles. Dodging broken glass while trying to avoid getting sideswiped by high speed cars always made for a tense ride. In the late ‘90s on one ill-fated club ride taking Skyline I flatted no less than seven times. After the third flat I turned around and sustained four more before I got home! Had it changed much? Yes and no. Cars still speed with abandon. However in the intervening period car drivers’ indifference or animus towards cyclists perhaps has diminished. Even though they’re not going any slower, they no longer hug the shoulder line and will actually give you space. The immense amount of broken glass seems to have been replaced with copious gravel and dirt instead. What will it take for Caltrans to actually maintain the entire road? For us cyclists it’s still Jim Crow: second-rate infra for cyclists.
Skyline is a bit hilly. Alan being in the best shape of all of us was motoring up the rollers easily while the three of us took our time. We stopped at the Lunardi’s Market at the 15-mile point for a quick refueling and bathroom break. I never eat breakfast, even before a ride. Although not famished I was now ready to eat. I settled on sushi. A bento of California roll was perfect: rice for carbs, a few veggies, and soy sauce for salt! Alan got some as well only the bigger bento; David got a small pecan tart. I like Lunardi’s. It’s a very small market chain and seems to have taken on the mantle from Andronico’s after it went bankrupt of being the customer service driven market with a lot of niche products and fantastic produce and a real meat market. As I waited in line to check out, I noticed the clerk chatting familiarly with the two customers in front of me as well as the one behind me. He knew their names and asked about their family and what they were doing for Easter. Obviously this Lunardi’s was the neighborhood market. When was the last time employees at the supermarket spoke to you as if you were a neighbor?
After Lunardi’s we escaped streets for quite a distance by taking the San Andreas Trail and then the Sawyer Camp Trail. This is really the beginning of the nicest part of this route, from Lunardi’s all the way down to Stanford. Back in the day we avoided the Sawyer Camp Trail because complaints about cyclists forced the park to establish and enforce a speed limit for cyclists. It was something ludicrously low, like 8 miles an hour. Essentially they were telling cyclists not to use the trail. I recall rangers using radar guns to ticket cyclists. Instead we used the streets parallel to I-280 and even at one point used I-280, entering on one ramp and immediately exiting at the next. This was illegal at the time but the only other option was a really arduous diversion. Eventually it was made legal for cyclists to use that section of highway because there was no comparable substitute byway. Now the speed limit is up to 15 MPH–pretty standard for MUPs and we’re back to riding on it.
As convenient as these trails are—they are ‘trails’ only in name since they are fully paved–they are really just multi-use paths and are well used by walkers and many other cyclists making for ‘interesting’ encounters. Although 8 miles an hour may seem very slow there are numerous tight bends with awful sightlines where it actually makes sense to cool your jets. This day it was very busy with day hikers and families out enjoying the fine, sunny weather. I didn’t mind going slowly since that was my theme for the day and it was great for the trails to finally be open again. After the storms of 2023 both trails were severely damaged and only up until a month or so ago for them to reopened after all the repairs, fire mitigation, and utility restoration.
From the Crystal Springs Dam it was a hop, skip, and jump down Cañada Road to Roberts for lunch. Nancy was telling me she’d like to come down here more often to ride. It’s not that hard actually: just take BART to Millbrae and ride up (well, really up!) to the Sawyer Camp Trail and skip all the traffic. Or, skip the short yet horrendous climb from Millbrae up to the trail by taking Caltrain further down and taking one of the more gentle climbs up to Crystal Springs.
Whether it was due to anxiety, copious rehydrating, the lack of heat, or age, my bladder was having a field day and I was having to stop to pee whenever the opportunity arose and even a few times when there was no ‘opportunity’. I peed no less than 11 times on the ride. Unlike in 2014 my ride mates were regrouping often so I was always able to catch up.
Rolling down Cañada Road is always a delight. It’s long, rolling, and has no development to ruin the attractive views of the reservoir and the surrounding hills. Although the Filoli estate fronts on the road, all the buildings are set so far back that you’re in no danger of suffering a Dynasty flashback. The end point is central Woodside and the lunch stop at Robert’s. As usual for a weekend the intersection was a mishmosh of every kind of vehicle trying to horn its way through the four-way stop. Horns ablazing. It’s also like some faux bro version of an Amsterdam intersection with hordes of cyclists in MAAP, Pas Normal, and Rapha kit on their Cervelos, Pinas, and Tarmacs parading and preening on their way to the next Strava segment. We parked in the shade to woof down some grub. Deterred by the long deli line, I made the mistake of grabbing a “chicken teriyaki” bowl. Protein, rice, veggies—what could be wrong? Plenty it turns out: the brown rice wasn’t completely cooked, the chicken was dry, the veggies were raw, and the teriyaki sauce dauntingly cloying. Ah, fuel for the body but not the soul.
By now it was bright sunshine although not overly warm at all. I was still in my windbreaker but it was soon to come off. Once over Sand Hill we dropped to Foothill Expressway for the long leg down to Los Altos. Despite being a major thoroughfare in the middle of the Midpeninsula, Foothill never feels like you’re just a mote in Cartown USA. The shoulder is wide, the traffic usually fast but not scary fast, and not very busy at all. You can get rolling very fast on Foothill—it almost encourages you to pedal faster. But not today—I was still in survival mode and riding well within my limits. David and Alan were pushing faster but I didn’t want to risk cramps. On one of the rollers David slowed down and I could see he was flagging. Considering how little he has ridden it’s praiseworthy that he made it this far and as fast as he did. I paced him for a while but then he surged ahead.
We headed up to Stevens Canyon Reservoir and we were out of the suburbs temporarily and into the foothills, strangely quiet given how close we were to the center of Silicon Valley. Even the car traffic dwindled. After a pit stop at the reservoir Nancy waved me ahead and that was the last I saw of her. A few minutes later I looked back and didn’t see her at all. Hmm, she must really be slowing down, I thought. Ahead was the last hill, Mt. Eden. It’s by Midpeninsula standards just a moderate climb, maybe a mile or two long and no more than 6-7% at times. At the top the view of the Santa Clara Valley was a nice reward. We waited for Nancy. And waited and waited. Flagging down cyclists coming up the hill we asked if they had seen her. Nope. Hmm, could she have taken a wrong turn? After a long wait, repeated phone calls and texts and no reply we were getting concerned. But being pretty tired we were no mood to launch a search party and backtrack. Go up Mt. Eden a second time? Nope! It was starting to get late anyway so we hoped Nancy would figure it all out and make it to Caltrain somehow.
The descent down Mt. Eden I’ve done only a few times, all of them a long time ago. It’s curvy and a bit bumpy with enough gradient to make it dangerous (or at least dangerous for an old fart like me). I took it easy. Alan and David dropped me immediately. Well, my Garmin was holding up much better than the POS I had 11 years ago with battery still at 87%. So I’d make it to the Los Gatos Coffee Roastery by GPS if necessary.
It was back to suburbia. David and Alan were waiting for me at the bottom. This section was actually mega-ugly but maybe I felt that way only because I was tired and wanted refreshment (= caffeine) immediately. Downtown Los Gatos was another moshpit of cars, day trippers, and bikes all slowing to a literal crawl. Now, why do I live in the Bay Area?? Sitting down for some java and potato chips was just the break I needed. Taking stock we were overall in good shape. Alan of course was fine; David and I despite our trepidations and physical issues were not suffering at all. The legs were a little tired but our spirits were still up.
The last segment of SF to SJ is a flat ride of about six or seven miles from Los Gatos to Caltrain most of it along Los Gatos Creek. The good news is that the multi-use path gets you away from the interminable cars, stop lights, and busy traffic. The bad news is that the path is well used on weekends by every form of alien life—kids on e-motos, clueless peds, Lime scooters—you name it. The path is also quite curvy and spine-tinglingly narrow at times especially when it dips below the many overpasses. During winter storms I’m sure the path is flooded and unusable as we were almost down to creek level at times. David and Alan rushed ahead and I did my best not to collide with the ‘wildlife’ peppering the path.
We exited the trail in the Willow Glen neighborhood. The tradition is to stop for frozen yogurt but it all depends on the timing of the next Caltrain departure. It was 5 o’clock and the next train was at 5:26, so we forwent the treat and headed to Ron Diridon. We made it with a few minutes to spare. By now we were about an hour behind my planned schedule of about a ten mile per hour average for the day. But overall it had been a chill day, so no worries or complaints.
David was delighted he had done the whole route on such little training; I was relieved I didn’t have a crisis; and Alan looked fresh as a daisy. In fact, the next day he was set to do a 90-mile ride in preparation for ALC. Talk about hardcore!
This was my first experience on the new electrified Caltrain. The bike cars are also improved. In contrast to BART the ride is smooth and quiet rather than rickety and ear-splitting. (Ear plugs are de rigueur on BART!) The calm was deeply appreciated. While heading back to SF we finally got word from Nancy. She indeed had taken a wrong turn and ended going up Redwood Gulch before giving up and backtracking. If you’re not familiar with Redwood Gulch, it’s a beautiful climb up to Highway 9. But it also hits 15% or more, i.e. it’s hella steep. She got bonus climbing points as then she had to go up Mt. Eden. I was relieved she was okay as the worst fantasies of her lying in a ditch somewhere had popped into my head during her long radio silence.
I deboarded at Millbrae to transfer to BART to get home. After two prolonged transfer stops, Balboa Park and 19th Street, I finally made it to Orinda at 7:50 PM. A two-and-a-half hour commute home. The fact that I was able to do this ride multimodally and not use a car was the plus; the lengthy commutes were the minus. It had been a 13-hour day on the road. But to my relief and self-confidence I did the whole thing rather painlessly by sticking to my game plan and came out the other end none the worse for wear. Next stop: one hundred miles.
Postscript: I live in fear of painful nocturnal leg cramps after a hard ride. But this time other than some minor foot cramps I had no sequelae. David, on the other hand, related to me the next day that he woke up screaming in the night with leg cramps. Ah, no pain, no gain. We’re pedaling off into our old age creaking, complaining, and gnashing our teeth. But we are still pedaling!
Postscript 2: I spoke with Nancy after posting this account and got more details on what happened to her. She went pretty far up Redwood Gulch to the point where she had to walk her bike, where she then gave up and turned around. I know exactly where that is: there is a point where the gradient on Redwood gets stupidly steep, at least 17%. And it feels like it! Although turning around was a right thing to do, if she had continued it would have flattened some and Redwood Gulch then intersects Highway 9. From there it would have been a descent to Saratoga and she would then have been back on route. However when she turned around and got to the “bottom”, she turned left to continue up Stevens Creek, which was the wrong way. Stevens Creek eventually dead-ends at a dirt trail. At that point she was at a loss what to do. Luckily she ran into another cyclist who was able to take her back to the Mt. Eden Rd. intersection where she continued on route. Those two wrong turns were not only debilitating but long. She made it to Caltrain and just missed the train. Rather than wait she rode to BART and took it to SF. She got home after 10 PM! So Nancy takes the award for Most Miserably Long Multimodal Mishegas. Oh, and she didn’t get dinner until she got home.