
Can you sink any lower when your motivation to do a ride is just to get a great meal? Or, is it the other way around: an exquisite meal can elevate any ride? Such was the case with David’s joint desire to go to Treasure Island by bike and to get another meal at Jungdon Katsu in Emeryville. When David broached the idea of this ride with me, he admitted as much: the tonkatsu at Jungdon is ‘omigawd good and I wanna go there again’. Since David hadn’t ridden his bike to Treasure Island heretofore, that became the cover for our chow-down.
I had never heard of Jungdon Katsu but I’ve eaten my share of tonkatsu. Tonkatsu is everywhere in Japan although originally it was an importation from Europe. It’s an adaptation of a breaded veal cutlet or schnitzel given a Japanese twist and using pork instead. We don’t give a second thought about adopted foods because almost all American food dishes originate from somewhere else. But Japan has a long, autochthonous culinary history that has choosily but warmly accepted some imports from India, China, and now Europe and the Americas. Karē raisu (curry rice) is now a Japanese food even though it came from India; gyoza are nothing more than a Japanese version of potstickers; Japanese milk bread or pan is derived from Portuguese bread. What makes tonkatsu Japanese is the use of panko breading for an exquisitely crunchy crust.
Although you can get a few other dishes there, Jungdon specializes in tonkatsu. But it does have other kinds of katsu—chicken, fish, and some vegan and vegetarian kinds you’d never see in Japan, not even in shojin ryori (Buddhist cuisine).
I’ve driven through Emeryville hundreds of time and it was almost always to get someplace else such as the start of a bike ride. Roger and I have been to Emeryville a bunch of times in order to ride on the Alex Zuckerman path to Treasure Island or to lead a tour of the Port of Oakland. Emeryville is one of those Bay Area cities you drive through and have no reason to stop there; think: San Leandro or Colma. Well, there is a ‘there’ there. Back in the day Emeryville was one big, blue-collar warehouse district—similar to South of Market in the 1960s. When real estate in SF started to go astronomical in the early 1980s an artist friend took me over to Emeryville to look for an empty warehouse he could buy to use as his studio/residence. He eventually bought a place there. So for a short time Emeryville was the halfway house for artists priced out of SF. With the tech boom the warehouses are long gone and replaced by high density housing, tech offices, and a small retail sector to support those folks.
I know little of the history of Jungdon Katsu except that it originally was a restaurant in the town of Danville to which we ride often. But it burned down. The site of the current Jungdon Katsu seems to have been another Japanese restaurant and Jungdon took it over and converted it to katsu. Incidentally, in Japan it’s very common for eating establishments to specialize in just one type of food. A place might serve just ramen, another place just udon, or another place just sushi or just okonomiyaki. So Jungdon does just katsu and probably as a concession to American culture relents and offers a few other things.
David wanted to do this ride as a midweek ride because Jungdon has lines out the door on weekends. His plan was to get there at lunch time hopefully before a crowd developed.
Contrary to the weather forecast it was bright, sunny, and showing signs of being a comfortable day. I rode over the hill from Orinda for the 10:30 AM start because I knew I was going to pig out and burning more calories before the food carnage was my safety valve. Jungdon is a small, modest venue right in front of a bus stop for the “Emery-Go-Round” free bus. Soon everybody showed up. Peter again drove up all the way from San Jose, quite a feat. It turned out everybody else drove there too—Joe and Lamberto from Walnut Creek, David and Cathy from SF. We were all ignorant of the parking situation in Emeryville. Word to the wise: metered parking is not cheap. J&L discovered that the public lot down the block was, gasp, free! If you come to Jungdon, you are advised.
We took off and around the corner encountered the Longest Stop Light in the Known Universe. I am not exaggerating: we were there for well over five minutes. You have to cross the Amtrak tracks and naturally we got there when the crossing guards came down and a short Amtrak train came by. Then another Amtrak came by and then crossing guards went up. Minutes passed with a red light. Nothing happened. The pickup driver in front of us gave up and did a U-turn to escape waiting for Godot. Doesn’t he realize that the rail line goes north-south and he’ll just have to cross the rails somewhere else? A lesson in impatience. With both trains long gone the light was still red. We thought it was broken. Two cycles of lights for the other lanes came and went and ours was still red. Peter and David gave up and went through the light and crossed the tracks to the next intersection. The light finally changed and we began our crawl through E-town to the Bay Bridge bike path entrance.
Emeryville has a lively restaurant and shopping district close to 101. I was surprised that Emeryville has a protected lane on the main drag, Shellmound, and lots of lights for peds to get across and to slow down cars.
David had never ridden onto the bridge. The entrance is directly off southbound Shellmound just past the Ikea. If you don’t pay attention you’ll miss it since there are no large signs announcing its presence. Once on the Zuckerman path things calmed down immensely and we were able to double up and chat amiably. There were almost no other users on the trail. The brisk headwind had the benefit of clearing out the air and the sky was crystal blue. The deafening roar of the cars on the bridge was everpresent, the one buzzkill of riding on the bridge.
We stopped to use the portapotty on the Zuckerman path and some concluded it was, uh, challenging and demurred. There is a nicer restroom on Yerba Buena; it actually gets cleaned!
I hadn’t ridden to TI since the road down to the island had been reconfigured. Instead of Treasure Island Road, which was only moderately steep, we have an ‘improved’ path on Macalla. Now cyclists must drop under the new bridge and do a short grunt to get to the top of Macalla before taking a very steep descent. I was on the brakes all the way down. While we were descending it wasn’t lost on me that this was the way we would have to return. Long ago on a lark Roger and I went up Macalla and afterwards concluded that we’d never do it again since Treasure Island Road was so much better. More on that later.

On TI we actually didn’t do much ‘farting around’ as David had hoped. The views were of course spectacular on such a clear day. We did the selfie thing. Someone asked what else was on TI. The answer is, not much except housing. (Note: there are two decent places to grab a bit, Aracely and Mersea, but they don’t have katsu.) Somehow TI reminded me of Rikers Island. (You do the math.) Climate change is going to make TI a very interesting place to live in about fifty years. We’ll get a picture of that beforehand by observing what happens to New Orleans.
Before anyone could suggest another place to explore, I exclaimed, “I’m hungry!” and that was enough to trigger everyone to head back to Emeryville. But first we had to get up to the bridge.
I wonder whose bright idea it was to close Treasure Island Road and force cyclists to go up Macalla. As we rolled along the waterfront David craned his neck upward and asked, “Is that the road we came down??” “Yes,” I said, “and it’s the only way to get back.” If you didn’t know beforehand, you certainly know when you’re going up Macalla that its construction must have been an expediency because it’s a friggin’ solid and constant 17 percent grade. It’s certainly “above category”, more like “WTF” category. The one crumb thrown to cyclists is that at the bottom four switchbacks have been carved into the cliff to reduce the gradient. You have of course the option to continue on the road. But no sane person does. The switchbacks are rather nice because they’re well landscaped with coastal flora, colorful and redolent with coastal sage. There were gardeners working on it as we climbed.
All good things come to an end and unfortunately on Macalla you’re only about a sixth or seventh of the way up the crazy road when the switchbacks vanish. Why didn’t they continue? Maybe the developer ran out of money (because you know the City wouldn’t spend the money to do this.)
This is when experience is important. Not only did I know we were going to have to go up Macalla but I had to go up another 17% grade, Lomas Cantadas, from our house over the Berkeley hills to Jungdon. I had my road bike with a low gear of 30×34. It got me up Umunhum and it was going to get me through this ride. Whilst I solemnly glided up the hill, the carnage raged behind me. I saw Peter dismount and start walking. Lamberto unfortunately couldn’t get into his lowest gear but somehow grunted out the whole thing. Joe was gasping like an asthmatic when he arrived at the top. From there it was back to the Zuckerman path but not before you have to cross the exit ramp for traffic heading to TI. Another great place to get creamed by a car—be careful. Then it was all downhill back to Ikea, a really nice grade, and I coasted the entire way.

Jungdon was waiting for us and there was no crowd or line. We were able to take over a couple of its outdoor tables. Roger, who didn’t ride, was waiting for us. We had already looked at the menu online and knew what we wanted. I wanted the full Japanese treatment so I got a curry rice with a tonkatsu and miso soup; Roger got the dark meat tonkatsu as did David; Cathy had the chicken katsu; Lamberto and Joe both got the fish katsu (which I was very curious about). Peter being leery of gluten avoided the panko and got a Japanese potato salad and some fried vegetables. David had warned us that the portions were large and he was right. I don’t recall ever getting a tonkatsu meal with more than one cutlet; Jungdon gives you two and they aren’t small ones either. It was super crunchy!
We know we’ll be back and we’ll know where we can park for free next time. Maybe we’ll just go to the vista point on the Zuckerman path and skip Macalla.
I think everyone was glad they didn’t have to cycle after lunch. Like a snake digesting a large rat we were, uh, incapacitated temporarily. The owner came out and thanked us for dining at her establishment. We told her we had come over to ride to TI because we wanted to eat at her place. She smiled. Peter told her about gluten-free panko he gets at Whole Foods. If he brought some, would she consent to use it? “Sure!” she said. You know Peter is coming back for tonkatsu!
As Roger and I were leaving, a passerby said, “Hey, was that the Different Spokes ride at Jungdon?” It turns out a club member, Aaron, who lives across the street from Jungdon saw us clustered outside. I told him he should have played hooky and come along. “But isn’t the road to TI kinda steep?” he said. Oh, we’ll have to show him in person next time. But why would he go when he can always just walk across the street to get his tonkatsu fix?





























