(Un)Happy Anniversary!

We were coming up on the third anniversary of David Sexton’s death. Three years ago he was a victim of a hit-and-run in Richmond, a murder that is still unresolved. By chance we were thinking of heading up to ride Mt. Veeder since it had been three years since we last traversed that climb. We got some friends of Gordon to come along to enjoy the day and Gordon agreed to meet us for lunch. Cycling up Veeder was a near-perfect ride to honor his memory. Alas, a life stolen. The gods adore those who die young.

We started at Buttercream Bakery in Napa. This place is a blast from the past at least in terms of commercial decor. It looks like something out of the 1950s, no surprise since it opened here 75 years ago. The pastries are excellent. After a brief tour of the residentail areas of Napa on the west side we started going slowly up. Then the road started going up more quickly and I was going up more slowly!

“But you are, Blanche, you are!”

Confessions of an Aged Cyclist
As I tediously pulled over into the little bit of shade at the top of Veeder, Jen said, “Look at you! You’re not even using your lowest gear!” My legs were pretty whipped—the last mile or so of Veeder is 10% so it’s no walk in the park. Nonetheless there I was honking a 39×24 gear all the way up. After I caught my breath, I blurted out, “I don’t go lower than this gear because it was the lowest gear I ever used when I was 30 and hella strong.” Now, what’s the formal definition of ‘delusional’? Let’s see, my dictionary says: “characterized by or holding false beliefs or judgment about external reality that are held despite incontrovertible evidence to the contrary, typically as a symptom of a mental condition”. Yeah, that sounds about right. I can’t admit that I’ve gotten old (note: not getting old but gotten old) despite every day having the bare facts shoved in my face. As they say, denial is not just a river in Egypt.

When faced with a choice of relenting and using a lower gear and likely going objectively faster, or continuing to deny reality and mash that “low” gear at a ridiculously sluggish cadence, I choose the latter. At the moment my delusion/excuse is that after losing a lot of muscle mass this last year, I could gain some of it back (Blanche, it’s never all coming back!) by mashing. I’m too lazy to go to the gym and do proper squats. But what’s the point? I’m not racing and my bike has a granny that will get me up anything in the Bay Area even on a bad day. One day reality will come crashing through the front door and smash me in the face when my body ultimately fails me. DNR. In the meantime I can continue in denial. “But you are, Blanche, you are!”

History
At the top of Veeder we took a well-earned break. Remember when you didn’t take breaks on rides? Or rather, you didn’t need to take breaks. As we were guzzling our water and Nancy’s cookies, three very fit women came up the other side of Veeder. We all commented on how wonderful it was that Veeder had so little traffic on a holiday. Heading south up Veeder is the harder way. It does stairstep up but the worst of it comes right at the beginning with a fairly long leg that has to be greater than 12%. Coming up from the south it starts easy and the last mile and a half are somewhere around 10%, so not as bad. Someone asked where the name Veeder came from; none of us knew. Afterwards I looked it up. It’s named for a Dutch pastor, Peter Veeder, who lived in Napa during the Civil War era and hiked throughout the area.

Biblical rain, fire
The descent was a revelation. The last time Roger and I had ridden Veeder was in 2023 when a section of the road just north of the summit had collapsed from the torrential winter rains. The road was closed but that made it perfect for cycling. We were able to walk the bikes across the rubble and continue downward. Today we could see that there were several new retaining walls and sections of guardrails. Gordon told us later that PGE has been undergrounding the power lines and perhaps that was the reason for the new work. Veeder was also burned in the 2017 Nuns fire but you can’t see any obvious trace of the fire now.

Going down
You can either continue your descent down Oakville Grade, which is 15% and straight, or turn onto Dry Creek Road to head south back to Napa. In the old days of the club Oakville Grade was considered a benchmark climb. We’d start at the Oakville Grocery and start up. It’s not long but it’s foolishly steep. Oh, and in those days we didn’t have anything much lower than a 42×24 or a 39×23. The only way to make it up was to stand and honk. The descent was challenging but in a different way because you picked up speed scarily fast. It’s essentially straight down so it was a test of your bravery or foolishness. I always chickened out. Back then my alarm bell went off somewhere close to 40 MPH; nowadays my instinct for self-preservation has me hitting the brakes around 30 MPH. I remember Bruce Matasci blasting down like a rocket. Scary fast. Those who die young the gods adore.

We turned down Dry Creek to discover that, while never a road in great condition, it was perhaps slightly better than in 2023 when it was a disaster zone in all but name. The asphalt was not just uneven but had alligator cracking all over the place. I hit a pothole that I couldn’t see in a shady area—I was thankful I was on fat road tires. It used to be fun; now it’s more of a chore to take Dry Creek. The other option is to descend Oakville to the valley and then contend with a jillion cars. It might be better to ascend Dry Creek in the future. Or bring 42 mm tires! Despite my moaning about the road, the scenery is rural and placid—just what I was looking for.

While Dry Creek is mainly downhill there are several short uphills with the very last one being the worst. Just before you hit the valley there is an egregiously steep section—but short!—that I always manage to hit just when cars are passing. This time was no exception. It’s a cursed section of road. It sucks to be me.

We regrouped at Alston Park. This park now has real bathrooms and that’s a good thing. Once you start up Veeder there isn’t a public restroom. Does a bear shit in the woods? Yeah, and cyclists too. Alston Park, being in the city of Napa, has flush toilets and not the pit toilets that are common in the boondocks. At this point we were heading over to the east side of Napa before arriving at our destination—what else?—a restaurant for lunch!

Go East, Young Man
We were going to do one more loop before heading to lunch at Stateline Smokehouse. Most cyclists parade on the roads north of the city of Napa. Not many ply the roads east of town and south of the Silverado Trail. But this rural area—ranches and vineyards—is quiet and devoid of tourists the way the valley used to be before the wine industrial market came knocking at the door. We had to cut across town on Trancas, which is about as bad as it can get: a major arterial in town on a road lined with strip malls, a major shopping center, and the regional hospital. Dodging cars was not too gruesome because the stoplights seemed to be countersynced and all traffic had to slow down. The transition from city to rural is abrupt on the east side. If you’re heading up the Monticello Road, which most cyclists are, you’ll miss the Vichy Springs area. Here the terrain is gently rolling and the density is low. Horse paddocks are interspersed with grapes. You’re literally just a mile from strip malls! We dropped back into Napa and it was another world of crowds, cars, and commotion.

Getting Smoked
We got to Stateline Smokehouse and Gordon was already there holding our place in line. None of us had been to Stateline before. David Goldsmith recommended it but his recommendation was based on a TV review; he had never been there either. He’s on a barbecue/smoker kick these days after Chris gave him a home smoker. Finding good barbecue is not as bad as the search for the Grail. But there is a difference between ‘okay’ barbecue and something stellar. Once you’ve had stellar, you’re not looking back.

Stateline had a band jamming inside. Stateline also has an outdoor patio in the back and today it was mysteriously devoid of patrons, so we had the whole place to ourselves and could avoid the din. Stateline was started by a chef whose background and training are fine dining. Now he’s doing a more downhome joint and it was hopping. The line was out the door when we arrived. You order and follow your tray down the line to the cashier. In the meantime you can see what others have ordered and regret your choice (and recommit to coming back and trying more stuff). I saw some ribs that were amazing. What was I doing with a sandwich?? Well, at least I won’t be in a food coma afterwards. I can’t remember what Steph ordered but Jen had to make do with the side dishes because there were no main vegetarian dishes. Is Stateline being uncompromising or making a mistake in not capturing that part of the market? I’ve had smoked tofu before and there is absolutely no point when you can have smoked ribs. But it’s a choice only for those who have no other choice. So maybe Stateline is being uncompromising. Maybe some day they’ll perfect smoked tofu and when they do it’ll be hella delicious.

The ‘secret’ fish special–is that barbecue??

Roger and I had pulled pork sandwiches. They were pretty damn good. The best pulled pork sandwich I ever had was at the old Jimtown Store. Stateline’s was right up there. Gordon and Nancy got the fish special whose presentation was something you’d find at a place of fine dining: it was beautiful and appealing. Both exclaimed afterwards it was excellent. The coleslaw was different in not being mayonnaise based. Roger and I split a large and I could have easily eaten one all by myself as it was that good. As I was following my tray earlier I saw an order of french fries. I impulsively asked the cashier if it was too late to get some. Nope! They were very, very good. I wanted to order a fresh peach crumble since peaches are in season. But I got distracted by the french fries and forgot!

The moneyshot of the climb

Over lunch the conversation was mostly catching up with Gordon. None of us had seen him since last summer. At the moment he’s not into cycling much and instead is walking four or five miles everyday early in the morning. He’s doing better than I am! Yet he still searches for deals on bicycles online. Go figure! By his own admission he fell into cycling hard and got addicted. One year he did over 16,000 miles. Whew. But things change. I know: it happened to me too. In the mid-1990s I stopped cycling because of life circumstances. Actually, I stopped exercising altogether. I then put on twenty pounds and was either going to have to start exercising again or make a trip to Macy’s to buy all new pants. Gordon isn’t the first Spoker to let cycling lie fallow. We know that it can be much more than simply exercise, a way to meet friends, or recreation. It often hits undercurrents deep within us that we don’t realize or understand at the time and when life changes alter those undercurrents, the siren call of cycling fades and we must move on.

The other main topic was gardening, a topic that Roger never gets tired of. We compared what vegetables we are growing in our gardens. Even though Napa has warmer summers than Orinda, its cooler winters meant our veggies are ahead of Gordon’s. Gordon mentioned that he and David had dry-farmed tomatoes and got spectacular tomatoes. I had heard that the best grapes are those that are dry-farmed and not irrigated. Maybe that works for tomatoes too.

It turns out I didn’t need that peach crumble. I was full. It will have to wait for next time. And there will be a next time because I’ll want to check out the baby back ribs. Steph reminded me that Jimtown Store is now reopened. Oh, we’ll want to ride out that way to check it out even if it’s no longer the pulled pork paradise it once was. (It’s now Asian fusion.) Return to the Jimtown Store!

Over an hour later we parted ways. Maybe the next time we come up to Napa to ride (or eat), we can convince Gordon to do a spin with us again.

It’s Dirty Work And Someone Has to Do It

Shell Ridge

Last week I rode some dirt—actually, a lot of dirt—with Valley Spokesmen, one of the other clubs I ride with. Unlike the late 1980s and 1990s, Different Spokes today has few exponents of offroad cycling. Back then a mountain bike ride would bring out anywhere from four to ten people and there were several of us who regularly led club dirt rides. The club’s annual trip to Lake Tahoe, which started out as a road tour, started to attract dirt riders due to burgeoning interest among the Spokerati who were curious about the famous Flume Trail as well as the copious trails around the lake. Alas, no more. About half the time David Millard gets no one to join his easy and convenient dirt rides in San Francisco and the Marin Headlands. Joan seems to have ridden off into the sunset since no one ever joined her for her all-day dirt escapades.

What of other clubs? There are a very few clubs with mountain bike rides including Almaden Touring, Fremont Freewheelers, and Grizzly Peak Cyclists. However the latter is noteworthy because it has two weekly “gravel bike” rides, one taking in routes in Redwood Regional Park and Sibley Volcanic, and the other Tilden and Wildcat Canyon Regional Parks. This makes it a real outlier by having two rides every week. It’s also noteworthy that these rides are called ‘mixed terrain’ rides with neither ‘gravel’ nor ‘mountain bike’ nomenclature. They’re rides that include paved and non-paved terrain and you can show up on any kind of bike.

Valley Spokesmen rarely has had dirt rides. But now something is stirring. One of the VS dirterati is trying to gather the unruly masses to get something regular going. Rich, as I found out in talking to him, has a long history of mountain bike and road cycling. He’s quite familiar with dirt terrain all over the East Bay. Apparently he and a few VSBC friends do dirt rides together but nothing has been publicly listed in the ride calendar. Now that’s about to change.

When I saw the listing for a gravel ride, after getting over my astonishment I was intrigued. But the weather forecast for the day of the ride was 95F in Walnut Creek. I wrote to Rich and told him I was interested but not interested enough to endure such hot weather. He apparently later concurred because I saw he canceled the ride due to heat. But he relisted it the following week and I signed up.

We met at Heather Farms in Walnut Creek. Heather Farms is a big city park with playing fields, playgrounds, and ample parking as befits a suburban amenity. It’s also a frequently used start for rides by Valley Spokesmen, Diablo Cyclists, and occasionally by Grizzly Peak. Although Valley Spokesmen is based in Dublin there must be significant northern membership because a ride starts here every week. I rode to the start from Orinda, about thirteen miles. As I waited I noticed the bike traffic, or rather the car traffic with bikes on racks coming into the park. Riding to a trailhead is de rigueur for mountain bikes. But road bikes?? Actually yes, because Heather Farms conveniently joins the Contra Costa Canal Trail, a well used multi-use path, and it’s very close to the Iron Horse Trail as well as the Ygnacio Canal Trail. In other words, you can go all over central Contra Costa starting at Heather Farms and pleasantly avoid cars. I love living here!

Amidst all the bikes I eventually found Rich. It was a small group, initially just Rich, me, and another VSer Frank. A fourth, Justin, had emailed Rich that he was running late and he’d meet us on the trail. The route he had selected was an ‘easy, beginner’ gravel route. I hadn’t paid any attention to the RWGPS map because what caught my notice was that it was in the Shell Ridge Open Space, an area that I thought I had never ridden and thus was unfamiliar with. But just before the ride I inspected the route to see what I was getting into and realized that I had ridden a long section of it years ago, the Briones-Mt. Diablo Trail, a ride I used to do on my ‘cross bike up and into Mt. Diablo State Park. It has one crazy steep section before Rock City that I could barely do in my ridiculous 34×26 gear. Gratefully Rich’s route turns around well before that wall. Maybe it was going to be an easy ride after all, which was just what I was looking for, being in no condition to do anything butch. I had no idea how strong the other riders would be and I imagined them all to be young. I mean, old farts don’t do dirt because crashing equals ‘game over’. What gave me heart was that it was a no-drop ride and I shouldn’t be left for dead. Not dead yet!

Rich and Frank were riding e-mountain bikes, full suspension. I was on my all-road bike with one-inch suspension in the front. Rich explained that he switched to an e-mountain bike after it got so hard on his regular mountain bike that it wasn’t fun anymore. When it stops being fun, why are you doing it? Admittedly mortification of the flesh may assist one’s spiritual awakening and it’s a practice to remind oneself that it’s only a body and to keep one’s eye firmly on the transcendental. But cycling is for many the exact opposite: to relish one’s current incarnation and all the delight a body can provide. Isn’t that also what it means to be gay? That’s what we’re told anyway. The worship of suffering may be a Rapha marketing trope but suffering also hones the blade in many ways, some of which we don’t appreciate or understand at the time. That’s where faith comes in.

We had an interesting conversation—well, interesting to me—about how they ended up on e-bikes. Rich had serious medical issues and was getting old. The experience pulled back the curtain on suffering to reveal that that Wizard of Pain wasn’t so magical after all. Getting an e-bike restored his faith rather than denying it. Rich proselytized Frank, who was also having a harder time on dirt; Frank tried an e-bike and he was converted. Baptism comes so easily these days. Both Frank and Rich are older than I am. They’re thin and muscular and I’m sure were killing it when they were younger. The gods adore those who die young so we must be looked upon with some disdain. But seeing even older old farts inspires me. Incidentally, Rich mentioned to me that he switched to an e-mountain bike years ago when he was 72.

After cutting through the Eichler neighborhood behind the John Muir Medical Center and discovering where the mansions of the rich and famous are in Walnut Creek, we went through a gate and there we were on Shell Ridge. It’s mid-June and all the grass in Contra Costa is dun colored and ripe for wildfires. The day started at 70F but it wasn’t going to stay that cool for long. The route was entirely fire road/double-track totaling only 14 miles, seven in and seven out. Easy-peasy, right? Well, not exactly. The entire route had a sawtooth profile of ups and downs, and a few of those ups were Sisypheanly steep, as in 24%. It would be challenging on asphalt but on dirt it’s even more difficult.

Rich led the way. Frank said, “Go ahead, I’m slow.” I demurred, “I think you better go ahead.” The two of them motored off as I got my bearings on dirt. The good news was a grader had recently gone over the fire road; the bad news was a grader had recently gone over the fire road. I don’t know what condition the road was in before the grader did the nasty but now there were interesting sand pits that previously had been just humungous ruts. Now they were filled in with sand and loose dirt, of uncertain depth, and of course I didn’t see some of them until I was wheel-deep. It reminded me of skiing except when I used to ski I was in control. My adrenaline skyrocketed. But those energy bursts helped me get up the steep gradients. There’s nothing like a sand pit AND a 20% grade to test your legs. For those roadies unacquainted with riding on dirt, note: when it gets hella steep, you can’t just stand up on your bike to get you out of trouble. Why? Because you’ll likely lose traction on your rear wheel. You also have to lean forward because if you sit upright as you would on a road bike, you are then “prone” [pun intended] to losing your front wheel. So you sit, lean forward as much as possible, and grunt. I lost count how many times I had to do that.

When descending steep declines, the opposite is true: you’ll want to get off your saddle and stand on your pedals. If you don’t and you hit a hard bump, it’ll launch your butt over the bars. You also have to get your butt as far back as you can, even behind the saddle in order not to go over the bars. That’s why mountain bikers (and now gravelistas) use dropper seatposts. I did my best imitation of Superman going downhill. Uh, that would be a Superman who is going really, really slow and timidly. Even if a dropper post adds a pound of extra weight, it’s going to pay dividends almost every time you go down. (And you like to go down, don’t you?) I need to get a dropper post; unfortunately no one makes one that fits my bike. Sigh.

Besides the numerous sand pits there was the usual off-camber and uneven road surface peppered with rocks and egregiously lumpy bumps making for lots of type 2 fun. Yes, this was an easy, beginner ride. In the meantime our fourth rider Justin caught up with us. He was riding a Surly that looked like a mountain bike sans suspension but was cleverly set up as a gravel bike. He’s a big guy and looked like he had the motor to power that mass. He was also about forty years younger than us. Clearly my role was to sweep the ride. I asked Justin how long he had been mountain biking. He said “Never done it.” I then asked him how long he had had his bike. He said he just got it from a friend at this year’s Chico Wildflower and this was the second time he had ridden it!

We continued along and Rich was very supportive and patient. He and Frank waited at the top of each rise and at each cattle gate—there were at least four—for Justin and me to catch up. In watching Rich and Frank and talking with them at each stop I learned why e-mountain bikes are selling like hotcakes. As you get older, muscle strength naturally declines even if your endurance remains steady. Muscle strength is important when you’re riding dirt, not just to control the bike but for the times when you hit a bump or the gradient suddenly gets worse, you need a burst of power to get over it (or else fall off). That motor can get you out of a lot of trouble by just stomping the pedals and activating the motor assist to power you over the bump. It’s hard to emphasize how draining dealing the terrain incongruities can be; it’s not just the gradient but the surface texture that affects your energy expenditure. The fact that Rich and Frank had full suspension was not lost on me either: those boingers smoothed out a lot of the bumps and made it easier to steer and control the bike especially when going downhill.

Speaking of downhills, each one was a thrillfest and I don’t mean that in a positive way. The downhills were as steep as the uphills and equally bumpy, rutted, and with sand pits. My measly one-inch of front suspension was useless. I was also on slick tires, meaning I had very little grip and in the sand, none; I had to let the bike roll as straight as possible or else crash. Of course if going straight meant I was going to dive into a rut, I’d crash anyway. At the bottom of each decline I sighed in relief—I was still in one piece.

Justin wasn’t having the greatest time either. He had lower gears than I, much lower, but he looked to outweigh me by sixty or seventy pounds. So he was able to spin up the climbs but he wasn’t going faster than I—he just was more “comfortable”. He had no suspension either but at least he had knobby tires and could ace the downhills.

The turnaround point was China Wall, a rock formation of exposed, uplifted seabed. In the past I had kept going to Mt. Diablo State Park via Wall Point Road. But this was plenty for me. We took a break at China Wall, did a selfie, and took in the view, which is of Mt. Diablo in one direction and a stately, mansiony subsection of Alamo in the other. A lone equestrian came up the hill from there. We chatted—she had a fine, feisty horse that liked to prance sideways. I was reminded of the Lippizzaner stallions when we did a cycle tour of Slovenia years ago. By now it was warming up and the sun was burning hot.

The return was more of the same. Rich had planned a diversion down to Castle Rock Recreation Area, not too long but a steep climb back up. He asked us what we wanted to do. Hesitation and silence. I know what that means! I blurted out that this was enough for me and my legs were getting toasty. Justin then breathed a sigh of relief and concurred. I was glad to know I wasn’t the only one fried. I could tell that each successive grunt uphill was progressively tiring my legs out and getting too tired would mean making errors and falling. I’m conservative in my old age: live to fight another day.

Rich offered a coffee/snack stop at the San Miguel Center. Normally I would have taken up the offer. (A Sweet Affair Bakery is there and it’s wonderful!) But my legs were fried and I was ready to head home even though we had only been out for about three hours and just 14 miles of dirt. I told Rich I was definitely up for more dirt rides but next time I would bring my mountain bike (because lower gears, fatter tires, knobby).

Speaking of which, it wasn’t lost of me that offering a beginner gravel ride but then having the leader show up on a mountain bike was odd. Why didn’t he just list it as a mountain bike ride? Of course after I saw the terrain—which in memory didn’t seem that hard (when I was younger)—it totally made sense even if I previously had been able to do it on a ‘cross bike. But getting to Heather Farms from Orinda was sweet on my road bike.

I’m looking forward to more group dirt riding. But I’m not up for technical terrain. ‘Technical’ generally means ‘tough’ but not necessarily tough because of the gradient but tough because the skills needed to navigate the terrain are really dirt-specific: picking lines, handling bumps and tree roots, rock gardens, etc. All of that stuff scares me now and the last thing I need is another broken bone(s) or head injury. I’ll stick to fire roads even if they have their own challenges.

The Disconnect
I’ve been pondering for some time the disconnect between the publicity that gravel bikes get and the reality here in the Bay Area. In the Midwest it’s obvious that a gravel bike makes a great deal of sense and that clubs there would offer gravel rides. You get to the city limits of just about any town in Iowa, Nebraska, or Kansas and you have gravel roads. It’s quite a bit different here. The vast majority of “gravel” rides in our area have historically been mountain bike rides. There aren’t a lot of flatter dirt/gravel roads around here because development has taken over all the buildable land. Those Midwestern gravel roads coexist with ample farmland. Well, that all vanished in the Bay Area many decades ago. There might have been gravel roads in the Santa Clara Valley and Contra Costa when they were mostly farm land. But now it’s wall-to-wall suburbs and all that is left is tiny, remnant farms. Now 99.99% of those dirt roads are paved. What’s left for dirt is the steep stuff on unbuildable land. The closest thing to copious “gravel” routes is heading out of the cities to national forest lands where you can ride fire roads and forest routes to your heart’s delight.

You would think that a burgeoning trend like gravel would mean recreational clubs’ calendars would be rife with gravel rides. That isn’t the case. Are there gravel clubs? None that I know of. Where are the gravel riders? I certainly see a lot of gravel bikes being ridden around on the streets. But I’m not sure how much dirt they’re seeing. Forty-five years ago it was the same with mountain bikes: most of them were used to ride around in the City, never seeing dirt except maybe in Golden Gate Park. As I learned a few years ago there are quite a few gravel bikes in the Marin Headlands and that terrain is well suited for that kind of bike. Even the tame fire roads that I ride on regularly—the Nimitz, Wildcat, Old Haul Road, Old San Pablo Dam Road—if I see other cyclists they’re usually on mountain bikes, not gravel bikes. One positive sign is that a few local centuries are starting to include gravel as their route options. That they continue to do so must mean that there are gravel cyclists plunking down money to register. They’re out there somewhere.

Perhaps the lack of gravel cyclists is partly due to ignorance. Unless you’re already mountain biking you’re not really sure where to go. And gravel riding requires many of the same skills that mountain biking demands but which road bikers lack. When I started mountain biking in 1988, I crashed five times that year, more crashes than in all the years of road biking. Getting used to your tires drifting around especially your front tire, keeping traction, reading the terrain, and picking lines over varied surfaces took a lot of time to assimilate. This assumes that gravel cyclists are coming from the road side. Frankly I’m not sure why a mountain biker would ever want a gravel bike. On dirt they are less capable than mountain bikes. They are a compromise vehicle: okay on road, limited on dirt. That’s why gravel bikes today are evolving into drop bar mountain bikes: when on dirt mountain bikes just rule. If you’re coming to gravel from the road side, which most of us are, a gravel bike can be an intriguing, realm-expanding vehicle despite its limitations. Riding on dirt gets you away from cars, gets you away from most urban distractions, and let’s you get your dose of “green showers”. But you don’t know that until you’ve been shown the way.

In the early days of the club I was “dirt curious”. But I had to be shown the way, i.e. initiated. And who was the older, wiser man who presided over that rite of initiation? None other than the Den Daddy Derek Liecty. He had offered to take me on my very first mountain bike ride. Ever the trend setter and early adopter, Derek had gone over to the dirt side years before and he even had two mountain bikes. “Hi Derek, um, I’m wondering if I could take you up on your offer to show me the ropes- I mean, show me the trails as I’m still a dirt virgin.” We set the date and he took me up somewhere in Redwood Regional Park for an easy dirt ride. My recollection was that I was underwhelmed. I was expecting the earth to move- well, it sort of did but not in the way I was hoping. Nonetheless it stuck in my mind. One day I was passing by Jitensha Studio in Berkeley and the next thing I know I’m walking out with a mountain bike that Hiroshi sold me on a deal. The rest is history. Anyway, my point is that unless you’re the brazen, not-craven type you’re not going to get a gravel bike and head out on your first ride without some help and maybe that’s the situation with the club: the dirt curious need to be initiated.

I know of two club members who have modern gravel bikes. But they don’t get ridden on dirt (well, unless they’re keeping it a secret). I actually don’t have a gravel bike. I have a bike I refer to as my ‘gravel’ bike but it’s actually a road bike. I also ride dirt on my ‘cross bike but its minimalist 35mm tires are getting, well, “tiresome”. Getting to know where to ride a gravel bike while having fun is the secret. But those places also need to be conveniently near where people live. David Millard is doing a great job of leading rides in San Francisco taking advantage of the tidbits of dirt on Twin Peaks, the Presidio, and Golden Gate Park. Realistically that’s what gravel riding is in the Bay Area if you’re going to do it from home: a fair amount of regular pavement and then diverting off onto some dirt. What we have here is more accurately called ‘mixed terrain’ since it combines pavement and dirt. A gravel bike—essentially a road bike but with much bigger tires and lower gearing—is a better horse for this course than a mountain bike with its complicated suspension. (Don’t tell Joan that—she rips on pavement with her full suspension rig.)

There were several reasons why I switched over to mountain biking back in the late 1980s. One of them is still compelling today: it’s dangerous on the roads and it’s not getting better, only worse. Although drivers in the Bay Area are now better adjusted to the presence of cyclists on “their” roads, the behavior they exhibit is much worse, so much so that it nullifies any gain in forebearance. I don’t ever recall seeing a car run through a red light when I was younger; while cycling I’ve seen two run through solidly red lights in the past year and I’ve seen many more in the past decade. Just yesterday while driving, I saw two cars run a red light in front of me. I’ve learned never to go through a stoplight first. Drivers are distracted or they just don’t care anymore. A driver nearly killed me in crosswalk a few weeks ago. He knew I was there: he smiled and waved at me as he practically brushed my front wheel as I tried to cross the intersection. The club has had two members killed in two separate incidents by hit-and-run drivers. The level of impatience and road rage I’ve witnessed by drivers in my own neighborhood is frightening. There is a stop sign in front of our house. Every day drivers go through it without stopping, many without even slowing down. Six years ago just a few miles from home I barely avoided getting hit by a car driver who didn’t stop at a stop sign and launched his car into the street. The guy in front of me was hit. It seems safer on trails although perhaps the threats are just different. If you’re tired of conflicts with car drivers, then getting into any kind of dirt riding will be a welcome relief. Gravel bikes just make it easier to get to the trails and fire roads than a mountain bike. That hardly seems like a plaudit these days because everybody is throwing their bike regardless of type onto a car and driving somewhere else in order to ride. Perhaps one day another group of dirt enthusiasts will arise in Different Spokes. But I doubt it. In the meantime I’m dirt riding with other clubs: birds of a feather flock together.

Ride Recap: June Happy Hour in the East Bay

Ride, eat, repeat…

This month we broke the mold of the HHITEB by starting in Moraga instead of Lafayette and pedaled an astounding (!) fifteen miles instead of ten. Whew. All of this epoch-breaking, era-ending change was so we could check out Canyon Club Brewery for dinner. Unfortunately Roger and I couldn’t personally vet this haunt before the ride so we were blindly treading into possibly dangerous territory. A meal at a brewery? This could end badly for all concerned. Getting blasted and fine dining, I’m not sure those two concepts go together. But when you’re toasted doesn’t everything taste delish?

We met at the Canyon Club Brewery but minus Joe. Joe and Lamberto had been showing out-of-town guests around San Francisco when in a moment of inattention Joe twisted his ankle while walking and turning to gaze at something that caught his attention. Hmm, pray tell what was it? (Or who was he?) Of course he consulted that well-known medical expert, Alexa, whether he should do the ride. That hussy in a reassuring, soothing voice urged him to rest his ankle instead of Doing the Right Thing, which is “no pain, no gain”! Joe, everybody knows: “That which does not kill me makes me stronger”, or something like that. That aphorism is attributed to the German philosopher Friedrich Nietzche, another well-known medical expert. (Note: He likely died of advanced syphilis.)

So the four of us—Lamberto, Roger S, Roger H, and I—headed to Orinda for the first leg. The road between Moraga and Orinda is Moraga Way. It’s a two-lane road surprisingly often with heavy traffic. But for most of it’s length—minus the short bridge over the San Pablo Creek—it has decent bike lanes and they’re even maintained (!). The houses that line both sides of the road get an unwelcome symphony of moving traffic daylong as this little road has become a congested thoroughfare funneling umpteen thousand commuters. It amazes me because Moraga hardly has any commercial development and is a sleepy ‘semi-rural’ suburb. But it does have St. Mary’s College and a couple of high schools. I am guessing that most of the cars are just denizens heading to and from work or running errands. The as-yet little known controversy is that both Orinda and Moraga have to increase their populations per the state’s fiat to Develop Housing or Else We’ll Develop It For You. But both towns are in extreme high fire zones, about as bad as possible. This means that evacuation routes for all these people have to work or else after a fire they’ll both look like the remains of Pompeii. And what is the main evacuation route? Moraga Way. That will mean that those bike lanes may be on borrowed time and we cyclists will be back to Frogger again. The dream option is to expand the width by encroaching on the homeowners in order to add a third lane and keeping the bike lanes. That ain’t gonna happen without some serious eminent domain.

The argument that development won’t increase traffic might work in cities. But it hasn’t so far: folks living in complexes without car parking still have cars and are just parking on the street, transit or not, and driving like crazy. Would this work in the suburbs like Moraga? Yeah, it’s laughable. Everybody is gonna have at least one car, usually two. The commuter bus from Moraga to BART is usually quite empty except for some high school students. Moraga Way has a 35 MPH speed limit, which is more traffic advice that is ignored. Moraga Way may once have been quiet but now it’s anything but.

Nevertheless we marched on with Roger S eager and chomping at the bit. It was during the commute but compared to many days, today’s traffic was tolerable. Roger zoomed ahead and the rest of us kept getting stuck at lights. Add a burgeoning headwind and catching him was hardly a ‘chill’ pace.

Once in Orinda we cut through its tiny downtown and headed up the St. Stephen’s Trail, our local MUP. Back on the streets we were passed by lots of cars on the frontage road to Highway 24, escapees from the jammed lanes on the highway. Only after we got to Lafayette did things calm down. Then we were back on the Lamorinda trail and it was oh-so peaceful as usual. It’s such a refuge from the traffic chaos happening all around.

We did a slight deviation to take a bathroom break at the Lafayette Community Center. You’d think a town community center would be, well, in the center of town. But not Lafayette: the community center is at the edge of town and a long walk away from anything else. It’s a former elementary school that has been upgraded with a large hall. There are also the ubiquitous pickleball courts in addition to bocce and horseshoes/cornhole toss areas. Speaking of cornhole, do you remember the cornhole toss at the club picnic in Golden Gate Park before the Pandemic? That topic came up at dinner. Wanderson was in charge of games and he brought his dildos for the cornhole toss. The mind boggles.

The community center has clean, spacious bathrooms all freshly improved. The sink has mood lighting in the basin. The children’s play area beckoned but we hurried on to dinner and skipped the slide.

Joe met us at Canyon Club Brewery with a guest of honor, their oh-so-kawai dog Oliver. I hadn’t seen Oliver since two OPPs ago. Apparently Oliver has serious medical issues and that he is still alive and chipper is a good thing. Which is worse, outliving your pet and having to see him/her suffer and die or your pet outliving you and having to worry how s/he will be well taken care of? I’ve been through the former and it’s dreadful. The thought of the latter prevents me from taking on another one.

Having seen how crowded the very cozy outdoor patio was when I checked out the place, I was concerned we’d be crowded out. So I made a reservation and that turned out to be entirely unnecessary for a Wednesday evening. There were plenty of people and their dogs but there was plenty of table space; the fire pits were busy with eyes glued to the FIFA match on the big screen above. Ordering is very modern: scan the QR code on your table and select your meal items and beverages, then pay by the Internet. A human being does deliver your goodies. A few years ago we were on tour from Nagasaki to Hiroshima and we stopped at a seaside restaurant. Same basic deal except that your meal was brought to your table by a robot! Japan is way ahead of us in robots. I’m guessing that the declining population in Japan especially in the rural areas means it’s hard to find employees. So robots.

Joe and Lamberto eagerly scanned the list of beers. What caught their attention was a 3.2 lager. 3.2 beer? I remember that! In days of yore in Colorado if you were eighteen, you could drink 3.2 beer. I haven’t seen 3.2 in ages and the Canyon Club makes its own version called “Cold is a Flavor”. They sipped and adjudged it to be very smooth and tasty, the low alcohol notwithstanding.The rest of us forwent a beer.

Fish and chips, oh so good!

The dinner menu was rather lengthy for a beer joint. Three of us settled on the fish and chips, Roger S got a burger, and Joe got a “brewery platter” consisting of mishmosh of noshes including three pretzels, German potato pancakes—they were square!—and bratwurst. Oliver immediately sat at attention giving him that look, “Daddy, please please please! I’m a good boy!” It’s hard to look after the health of your dog when you have to be the bad guy, isn’t it?

The fish and chips was excellent. It can be such a plain dish, kinda like mediocre pizza, but when it’s done well it can be transporting. I was transported. It’s such a contradiction too: mega deep fried food to clog your arteries but fish to cleanse them. Roger S shrugged and said his burger was nothing special. But he liked the fries. So did I—they were crisp and crunchy and artery clogging.

Meh, burger could have been better

Joe and Lamberto loved the lager and asked one of the wait staff if it was sold in cans or bottles. Nope. But you can get it in a growler to take home. Disappointed faces. I suppose you could get a growler and chug it in the privacy of your home and thereby get the benefit of freshly tapped beer. At least you wouldn’t be driving home smashed—you could just safely pass out on your sofa.

Dinner conversation was strangely medical. Yeah, when together old farts always opine on the latest physical ailments, health catastrophes, and doctor admonitions. We never talked about that when we were younger except to brag about our crashes and road rash. Lamberto and Joe are on a real health kick since retirement. I know exactly what they’re going through. When I retired I was no longer eating greasy food from the student food hall, plus no longer sitting at a desk for nine hours a day. The reduction in stress did wonders for my blood pressure too. And I lost weight even though I was no longer commuting to work by bike. Now they’re prepping for a half-marathon in Canada and doing cross-training: cycling, running, hiking. And, ahem, fueling.

Brad having a smoke before taking off for Guerneville 1983

The main topic of discussion was diabetes and prediabetes. That and high cholesterol and blood pressure. The only thing missing was stopping smoking. Speaking of which, nowadays I don’t know of anyone in the club who smokes. If they do, they are totally in the closet. In contrast, in the early days of the club there didn’t seem to be any contradiction between doing a ride and lighting up a cig afterwards (or even before). I recall a ride where one member was riding along AND smoking a cigarette! I recently came across a picture from the very early days of the club and one of the four founders, Brady Ennis, had a cigarette in hand. I’m not sure what that means—maybe that smoking is really hard to quit or like Coke things go better with it, even cycling.

The other topic was the history of the club picnic, probably because it was uncommonly cool for Contra Costa and the picnic suffers from the same problem and also because the play areas at the community center brought up memories of Wanderson’s dildo toss. Of course, I had to opine at length about the picnic since logorrhea is my middle name and I happen to be the only person left in the club who remembers the gory details (and has the evidence). The theme of the club picnic over the years has been to find a place where it’s actually summery and people will neither freeze nor desiccate. That’s why the location has hopped from Golden Gate Park (chilly), China Camp (okay but far away), Sam P. Taylor (okay until it was swelteringly hot), Briones (was hot), Redwood Park (okay), Orinda Oaks (was incredibly hot!), Mill Valley (too shady) and now at Tunnel Tops. So far Tunnel Tops seems to be working. But like Golden Gate Park all it will take is one inclement “summer” day and the club will want to relocate to someplace warmer and sunnier. My vote is for Coyote Point down the Peninsula. Roger S pointed out that there are new parks with barbecue grills in SF near the Chase Center.

I’m still here waiting…

Amidst all of this Oliver was resolutely attentive yet not begging. Acting as his verbal advocate I asked Joe if any of the tidbits of bratwurst on his plate would perhaps be an appropriate reward for his inestimable patience. Joe relented and gave him some. You only have so many meals left in life.

Oliver was also the subject of attention of one toddler whose father wisely kept her at arm’s length from him. Oliver seemed unfazed by the attention. Although Oliver doesn’t bite, he does growl. He didn’t though. Joe was concerned that the young girl would strangle Oliver in a love hug or poke out his eyes.

It started to get dark. Despite the immersive conversation the plates were now bare, the glasses empty, and it was the appropriate time to bid adieu. Although it was an unusually cool evening, we did not avail ourselves of the fire pits. Everyone had extra layers to stay cozy and no one was shivering. Next time I guarantee it will be hot. We are thinking we might start our next Happy Hour ride in Walnut Creek and dine there or head down to Danville, which of course will mean having to ride after eating. I’m not sure I’m “hot” on that idea…

You Only Have So Many Meals Left in Life

The eating club with a riding disorder

Alas I’m not clever enough to have coined that caption. The credit goes to Fast and Fabulous NYC, a somewhat moribund LGBTQ+ cycling club. Apropos of Roger’s and my rides I’ve stolen their motto. I don’t think that when Lance said “It’s not about the bike” that he meant it was really about the food. But maybe it is. Over many years of cycling my focus has shifted lower and lower and I’m not sure if I’ve hit bottom yet but I’m eager to find out. Over many years of cycling experiencially what I’m seeking has shifted, from PowerBars to…

I used to ride like a demon: lots of miles was never enough, fast was never fast enough, and hill intervals and big mountains were fun. Then I discovered cycle touring and it all fell apart. I was on a commercial bike tour, my first ever, and the group was mostly people like me. After two days of beating each other up, the brightest bulb in the group (as well as the fastest), a racer from Stockton, stuffed a Sony Discman and two small speakers in his jersey pocket and we went up Monte Baldo near Lake Garda listening to Pavarotti arias. We slowed down. A lot. And had a much better time. We actually looked at the scenery instead of the wheel in front of us. The combination of cycling in the mountains of Italy while listening to Pavarotti was near-perfection. Then stopping for an Italian lunch was perfection. That set the tone for the rest of the tour and forever changed how I viewed cycling and its possibilities.

Two years later we were on another cycling tour, this time in Piemonte, and every single day we stopped for a big lunch—I mean really big, like what you’d have for dinner, multiple courses—and it was never less than an hour and a half. The food was remarkable, revelatory, and the thought of regressing to Clif bars and bananas when home was absurd. I used to go on rides and stopping to refuel was a nuisance we abided. The idea of actual food when riding was superfluous. Not anymore. In the evening there was always a dinner that surpassed the lunch. Ride, eat delicious food, ride, eat even more delicious food, sleep.

The chef José Andrés said, “You really have so many meals left in life, you know.” So make the most of each one. And look forward to the next one. For cyclists perhaps it’s ‘you really have just so many rides left in life.’ So make the most of each one as well.

This month’s Happy Hour in the East Bay visited Tropa in Lafayette. Tropa is a “modern” Filipino restaurant. I’m not sure exactly what that means because other than a stray lumpia or two I’m not familiar with Filipino cuisine. Fortunately we had Lamberto to help us decode the menu.

Of course before we ate we did a ride. It was the usual: up the Lamorinda trail and back. As in March we had a heat wave to literally warm things up for us. Much of the Lamorinda trail has tree cover and in the late afternoon heat it is marvelous: warmth with the sensation of cooling down to a pleasant medium. Strollers and doggers were out but for the most part the trail was deserted, allowing us to enjoy it without running afoul of other users. And when we did, we rang our bike bells to greet them.

The turnaround point is Moraga Common. This time of year folks are bringing the barbecue to the park for a little evening cookout and the smell of charring meat whetted our appetites.

Then the long, gentle descent back to Lafayette.

Tropa occupies the former location of The Hideout Kitchen that Roger and I used to take Social A riders to. Hideout got noticed and it became packed and had long waits. Then Hideout relocated to Fiesta Square in Lafayette where the Lafayette Public Garden and Tutu’s also sit. There it had a much bigger venue (and a much pricier menu). I’m not sure when Tropa appeared; Lamberto and Joe had mentioned dining at a pretty good Filipino restaurant in town. That piqued my interest because (a) I don’t know anything about Filipino food, and (b) it’s maybe a sign that insular Lafayette is becoming more cosmopolitan. That restaurant was Tropa.

Masarap!

Our table was waiting for us. Tropa has a pleasant outdoor patio under the trees. Main part of the restaurant as well as the outdoor venue are set off from the street, making for a surprising quiet and seclusion. Their menu isn’t long and Lamberto had to give us the executive summary of each main dish. My god, they had “double fried” petrale sole! It sounded delicious but perhaps a bit much, so I ordered another fish dish, Kilawin, that turned out unexpectedly to be like a poke. It was interesting, tasty, and uh large! The adobo fried rice was heavenly. The table next to us had the adobo sticky ribs—they smelled amazing. But again, maybe a bit much. Roger wanted the petrale sole but was thinking exactly as I was: delicious but too much food. So he ordered an eggplant dish. Chris got the grilled octopus and after his first bite declared it was perfect. He said it’s easy to overcook octopus and turn it into rubber; Tropa cooked them exactly right. I can’t recall what Joe and Lamberto ordered but they were huge.

Kilawin

I’d go back. But I’d get the double fried petrale sole or the adobo sticky ribs the next time and totally ‘pig’ out. Lamberto felt that Filipino food wasn’t generally the healthiest. Maybe he meant it was full of delicous fat. Sounds good to me! Pig certainly seems to be a mainstay. But it is also for Chinese (as least that’s what I grew up on) and no one complains about it being unhealthy.

Next month we’re checking out the Canyon Club Brewery in Moraga and our ride will be long—16 miles.

Ride Recap: Katsu Got Your Tongue?

Sittin’ on the dock of the bay/Watching the tide roll away

Can you sink any lower when your motivation to do a ride is just to get a great meal? Or, is it the other way around: an exquisite meal can elevate any ride? Such was the case with David’s joint desire to go to Treasure Island by bike and to get another meal at Jungdon Katsu in Emeryville. When David broached the idea of this ride with me, he admitted as much: the tonkatsu at Jungdon is ‘omigawd good and I wanna go there again’. Since David hadn’t ridden his bike to Treasure Island heretofore, that became the cover for our chow-down.

I had never heard of Jungdon Katsu but I’ve eaten my share of tonkatsu. Tonkatsu is everywhere in Japan although originally it was an importation from Europe. It’s an adaptation of a breaded veal cutlet or schnitzel given a Japanese twist and using pork instead. We don’t give a second thought about adopted foods because almost all American food dishes originate from somewhere else. But Japan has a long, autochthonous culinary history that has choosily but warmly accepted some imports from India, China, and now Europe and the Americas. Karē raisu (curry rice) is now a Japanese food even though it came from India; gyoza are nothing more than a Japanese version of potstickers; Japanese milk bread or pan is derived from Portuguese bread. What makes tonkatsu Japanese is the use of panko breading for an exquisitely crunchy crust.

Although you can get a few other dishes there, Jungdon specializes in tonkatsu. But it does have other kinds of katsu—chicken, fish, and some vegan and vegetarian kinds you’d never see in Japan, not even in shojin ryori (Buddhist cuisine).

I’ve driven through Emeryville hundreds of time and it was almost always to get someplace else such as the start of a bike ride. Roger and I have been to Emeryville a bunch of times in order to ride on the Alex Zuckerman path to Treasure Island or to lead a tour of the Port of Oakland. Emeryville is one of those Bay Area cities you drive through and have no reason to stop there; think: San Leandro or Colma. Well, there is a ‘there’ there. Back in the day Emeryville was one big, blue-collar warehouse district—similar to South of Market in the 1960s. When real estate in SF started to go astronomical in the early 1980s an artist friend took me over to Emeryville to look for an empty warehouse he could buy to use as his studio/residence. He eventually bought a place there. So for a short time Emeryville was the halfway house for artists priced out of SF. With the tech boom the warehouses are long gone and replaced by high density housing, tech offices, and a small retail sector to support those folks.

I know little of the history of Jungdon Katsu except that it originally was a restaurant in the town of Danville to which we ride often. But it burned down. The site of the current Jungdon Katsu seems to have been another Japanese restaurant and Jungdon took it over and converted it to katsu. Incidentally, in Japan it’s very common for eating establishments to specialize in just one type of food. A place might serve just ramen, another place just udon, or another place just sushi or just okonomiyaki. So Jungdon does just katsu and probably as a concession to American culture relents and offers a few other things.

David wanted to do this ride as a midweek ride because Jungdon has lines out the door on weekends. His plan was to get there at lunch time hopefully before a crowd developed.

Contrary to the weather forecast it was bright, sunny, and showing signs of being a comfortable day. I rode over the hill from Orinda for the 10:30 AM start because I knew I was going to pig out and burning more calories before the food carnage was my safety valve. Jungdon is a small, modest venue right in front of a bus stop for the “Emery-Go-Round” free bus. Soon everybody showed up. Peter again drove up all the way from San Jose, quite a feat. It turned out everybody else drove there too—Joe and Lamberto from Walnut Creek, David and Cathy from SF. We were all ignorant of the parking situation in Emeryville. Word to the wise: metered parking is not cheap. J&L discovered that the public lot down the block was, gasp, free! If you come to Jungdon, you are advised.

We took off and around the corner encountered the Longest Stop Light in the Known Universe. I am not exaggerating: we were there for well over five minutes. You have to cross the Amtrak tracks and naturally we got there when the crossing guards came down and a short Amtrak train came by. Then another Amtrak came by and then crossing guards went up. Minutes passed with a red light. Nothing happened. The pickup driver in front of us gave up and did a U-turn to escape waiting for Godot. Doesn’t he realize that the rail line goes north-south and he’ll just have to cross the rails somewhere else? A lesson in impatience. With both trains long gone the light was still red. We thought it was broken. Two cycles of lights for the other lanes came and went and ours was still red. Peter and David gave up and went through the light and crossed the tracks to the next intersection. The light finally changed and we began our crawl through E-town to the Bay Bridge bike path entrance.

Emeryville has a lively restaurant and shopping district close to 101. I was surprised that Emeryville has a protected lane on the main drag, Shellmound, and lots of lights for peds to get across and to slow down cars.

David had never ridden onto the bridge. The entrance is directly off southbound Shellmound just past the Ikea. If you don’t pay attention you’ll miss it since there are no large signs announcing its presence. Once on the Zuckerman path things calmed down immensely and we were able to double up and chat amiably. There were almost no other users on the trail. The brisk headwind had the benefit of clearing out the air and the sky was crystal blue. The deafening roar of the cars on the bridge was everpresent, the one buzzkill of riding on the bridge.

We stopped to use the portapotty on the Zuckerman path and some concluded it was, uh, challenging and demurred. There is a nicer restroom on Yerba Buena; it actually gets cleaned!

I hadn’t ridden to TI since the road down to the island had been reconfigured. Instead of Treasure Island Road, which was only moderately steep, we have an ‘improved’ path on Macalla. Now cyclists must drop under the new bridge and do a short grunt to get to the top of Macalla before taking a very steep descent. I was on the brakes all the way down. While we were descending it wasn’t lost on me that this was the way we would have to return. Long ago on a lark Roger and I went up Macalla and afterwards concluded that we’d never do it again since Treasure Island Road was so much better. More on that later.

Babylon by the Bay

On TI we actually didn’t do much ‘farting around’ as David had hoped. The views were of course spectacular on such a clear day. We did the selfie thing. Someone asked what else was on TI. The answer is, not much except housing. (Note: there are two decent places to grab a bit, Aracely and Mersea, but they don’t have katsu.) Somehow TI reminded me of Rikers Island. (You do the math.) Climate change is going to make TI a very interesting place to live in about fifty years. We’ll get a picture of that beforehand by observing what happens to New Orleans.

Before anyone could suggest another place to explore, I exclaimed, “I’m hungry!” and that was enough to trigger everyone to head back to Emeryville. But first we had to get up to the bridge.

I wonder whose bright idea it was to close Treasure Island Road and force cyclists to go up Macalla. As we rolled along the waterfront David craned his neck upward and asked, “Is that the road we came down??” “Yes,” I said, “and it’s the only way to get back.” If you didn’t know beforehand, you certainly know when you’re going up Macalla that its construction must have been an expediency because it’s a friggin’ solid and constant 17 percent grade. It’s certainly “above category”, more like “WTF” category. The one crumb thrown to cyclists is that at the bottom four switchbacks have been carved into the cliff to reduce the gradient. You have of course the option to continue on the road. But no sane person does. The switchbacks are rather nice because they’re well landscaped with coastal flora, colorful and redolent with coastal sage. There were gardeners working on it as we climbed.

All good things come to an end and unfortunately on Macalla you’re only about a sixth or seventh of the way up the crazy road when the switchbacks vanish. Why didn’t they continue? Maybe the developer ran out of money (because you know the City wouldn’t spend the money to do this.)

This is when experience is important. Not only did I know we were going to have to go up Macalla but I had to go up another 17% grade, Lomas Cantadas, from our house over the Berkeley hills to Jungdon. I had my road bike with a low gear of 30×34. It got me up Umunhum and it was going to get me through this ride. Whilst I solemnly glided up the hill, the carnage raged behind me. I saw Peter dismount and start walking. Lamberto unfortunately couldn’t get into his lowest gear but somehow grunted out the whole thing. Joe was gasping like an asthmatic when he arrived at the top. From there it was back to the Zuckerman path but not before you have to cross the exit ramp for traffic heading to TI. Another great place to get creamed by a car—be careful. Then it was all downhill back to Ikea, a really nice grade, and I coasted the entire way.

Katsu heaven

Jungdon was waiting for us and there was no crowd or line. We were able to take over a couple of its outdoor tables. Roger, who didn’t ride, was waiting for us. We had already looked at the menu online and knew what we wanted. I wanted the full Japanese treatment so I got a curry rice with a tonkatsu and miso soup; Roger got the dark meat tonkatsu as did David; Cathy had the chicken katsu; Lamberto and Joe both got the fish katsu (which I was very curious about). Peter being leery of gluten avoided the panko and got a Japanese potato salad and some fried vegetables. David had warned us that the portions were large and he was right. I don’t recall ever getting a tonkatsu meal with more than one cutlet; Jungdon gives you two and they aren’t small ones either. It was super crunchy!

We know we’ll be back and we’ll know where we can park for free next time. Maybe we’ll just go to the vista point on the Zuckerman path and skip Macalla.

I think everyone was glad they didn’t have to cycle after lunch. Like a snake digesting a large rat we were, uh, incapacitated temporarily. The owner came out and thanked us for dining at her establishment. We told her we had come over to ride to TI because we wanted to eat at her place. She smiled. Peter told her about gluten-free panko he gets at Whole Foods. If he brought some, would she consent to use it? “Sure!” she said. You know Peter is coming back for tonkatsu!

As Roger and I were leaving, a passerby said, “Hey, was that the Different Spokes ride at Jungdon?” It turns out a club member, Aaron, who lives across the street from Jungdon saw us clustered outside. I told him he should have played hooky and come along. “But isn’t the road to TI kinda steep?” he said. Oh, we’ll have to show him in person next time. But why would he go when he can always just walk across the street to get his tonkatsu fix?

Ride Recap: April Happy Hour in the East Bay

¡Muchas carnitas!

After the summer-like weather in March, this month’s Happy Hour returned to normal spring temperatures much to Roger S’s disappointment. Hoping to escape another typical day in San Francisco, he scooted over to join our East Bay fun group for another short ride on the Lamorinda MUP with a concluding dinner at El Talpense in Lafayette. He wasn’t the only member from afar: Peter, who resides in San Jose, endured the commute traffic to join us! That’s the “problem” for the Happy Hour ride: unless you live in the East Bay, you are probably in for some hellish traffic to get to Lafayette and you will need that ride and the food coma afterwards to reset your mood and blood pressure.

Roger S dealt with the commuter crush by (a) coming over early, and (b) using BART. The latter is not Roger’s usual means of transport but on a weekday at commute time, the bridge is a hopeless mess. BART was the wiser choice. Plus, he was able to get in a longer ride and then met us at Moraga Common. So it was a win-win. This was also not Peter’s first rodeo. He knew the routine: head out way earlier than you think you’ll need to get somewhere at commute time. He got to Lafayette with time to spare and indulged his other interest by going into the flyfishing store next door to El Talpense to kill time.

My husband Roger was hoping to join us for the ride. But a trivial leg injury had turned into a medical emergency when it got infected and now he’s sporting a wound that will take months to fully heal. Although he got released to ride just the day before, he wisely decided to sit this one out and joined us just for the meal post-ride, which is really the point of this “ride” anyway.

We hadn’t seen Peter in well over a year. He was going to come to the Pool Party in 2025 but then got Covid and had to back out. (Thank you, Peter!) Since we’d seen him last he’s had a new job, a new bike, and a bunch of other life changes. It takes a lot of patience to be a South Bay member. Since the club (other than the ALC crowd) infrequently hosts a ride in the South Bay anymore, you all have to schlep north if you want to hang with the cool kids. When Sharon Lum, who also lives in SJ, was more active in the club, she did a lot of cheerleading for our South Bay contingent. David Gaus used to do a lot to hold the freak flag high for us as well. But since his job is like flesh-eating bacteria—all-consuming—he hasn’t been able to lead rides in the South Bay. For those of you who live south of Mountain View and are still members of the club, maybe lightning will strike some club member and they’ll get inspired to lead a ride in your neck of the woods. It’s probably been about five years since the one that David last led. I keep thinking I’m going to head south and do the Tierra Bella metric route or David’s old San Juan Bautista Grade-Castroville-Aromas loop. But it’s so far away…

It wasn’t chilly and it wasn’t hot—it was just right, about 70F. The ride was, as usual, very pleasant and the trail wasn’t crowded at all. Unlike previous iterations we whizzed up the trail. This was partly prompted by leaving late (hey, it’s a Different Spokes ride—would you expect otherwise??) and partly by Peter hitting the afterburners. Joe and Lamberto were no slouches either: they’ve been riding more and doing a lot of hiking and are even planning on running a half-marathon. In my case I was riding my road bike instead of my old beater bike so I was able to keep up. Peter showed off the digital “bell” in his cycling computer as we passed other trail users.

Roger S was waiting for us at Moraga Common. After a pit stop we headed back enjoying a nice coast downhill after St. Mary’s College. And because of the recent rain we even had water running down the ‘secret’ waterfall next to the trail!

At El Talpense, which is right on Lafayette’s main drag, Mt. Diablo Boulevard, Roger had arrived and gotten our outdoor table. Unlike in much of San Francisco, dining al fresco in Contra Costa does not require a down jacket. Lafeyette, whether by chance or efforts of the local Chamber of Commerce, is turning into a mini-gourmet ghetto. Well, maybe that’s an exaggeration. But the number of eating establishments seems to have exploded along Mt. Diablo Boulevard giving us many options for Happy Hour. El Talpense is a sister restaurant to the first one in Berkeley. Years ago the Lafeyette site used to be an excellent California cuisine restaurant, whose name I no longer recall. But the landlord raised the rent, and the husband-and-wife team relocated. In the interim it’s been a Middle Eastern restaurant; it too vanished. Apparently El Talpense thought they’d try their chops in Conta Costa and opened this second branch.

Roger and I trialed this place about a month ago. To be honest, we thought it was only fair. This is an ongoing years-old problem with our area: really good Mexican and Central American food is rare. Maybe it’s the expensive real estate, maybe it’s the whiteness of the local population, maybe it’s something altogether different. (Although El Jarro directly across the street is a surprisingly good Oaxacan joint.) After living near the Mission and being able to get inexpensive and excellent Mexican food, the Orinda area is a let-down. But El Talpense has a very nice venue and the service is very good. Plus, for the area and with food prices heading skyward the menu prices are reasonable.

Carb loading

Despite the brevity of our ride, there sure was a lot of food being consumed. Joe, so to speak, ‘took the cake’ by ordering a three-item plate that looked like it was a serving platter. Let’s just say the portions were generous all around. Roger’s plate of carnitas was also, uh, generous. This time I ordered fish tacos and they were excellent and tasty. Previously I had had a burrito and it was just okay. That said it’s hard to make a burrito really stand out other than by making it massive. But I’ll come back for the fish tacos!

Of course over dinner (and the ride) there was a lot of catching up to do. On the pet front everybody’s favorite small honorary humans were still alive and kicking despite their ailments. Lamberto has a new sled, a Specialized Roubaix that he got on sale. Coincidentally Peter has the same bike but the previous year’s version, which looked identical. Ah, spring means new bikes. Roger S had new cycling kicks. He ditched his old Sidis, which never were very comfortable for him, for some non-brand name shoes he got on the Internet. They have a much wider and taller toebox that don’t scrunch his toes. He said they’re even comfortable to walk in. We caught up on each other’s various ailments. (What else do old farts do when they get together??) Joe and Lamberto have been volunteering to do some trash clean up and Joe had a nasty run-in with poison oak necessitating a trip to the doctor. Peter it turns out is apparently still suffering some after-effects of his Covid bout last summer though you wouldn’t know it by how fast he was going.

We practically closed up El Talpense. It was getting dark and the owners rolled down the windows between the indoors and outdoor patio. One small group arrived to sit on the patio just as we left but otherwise business looked done for the day. That’s life in the suburbs: everybody is pretty much done doing stuff by 8 PM and the sidewalks roll up. We bid our farewells. Next month we’re going to the Filipino restaurant down the street, Tropa. Oh right, and we’ll ride beforehand!

The Russian River Weekend [4/28/26 update]

Ron social distancing from his bike

I wrote the following article some years ago after attempting at least two frustrating efforts to revive the club’s Russian River Weekend. After reaching the same impass–the difficulty of finding a suitable venue–I shelved the project. After some thought I’ve come to the conclusion that not only is the Russian River not a great place to host a getaway weekend but that the concept of a getaway weekend is dated. Why isn’t Guerneville a good site? It’s très gay and has city amenities like bars and clubs. But like the Bay Area everything in G-town is expensive now. Of course ‘expensive’ is relative. If you don’t mind forking over $300 a night for a place to stay, then it’s not expensive. Members are no longer interested in camping and even camping isn’t that cheap anymore. At this point in history reviving the Guerneville/Russian River Weekend is a losing cause and like a bad high school reunion would be a feeble effort to relive past memories to everyone’s disappointment. The economics just don’t make sense anymore. Also members aren’t interested in collectively creating a shared weekend other than to Venmo the cost and expect someone else to do everything: organize, sag, cook, clean. Although the riding may be just as beautiful as it was 40 years ago, the population of the club has changed and with it the expectations. With Cycle to Zero literally decamping to the Russian River for its fundraiser there is little interest in our community for ‘replicating’ the event. Wait…who’s replicating who?

The fate of the Guerneville Weekend is in tandem with the end of the Lake Tahoe Spectacular, another well-loved club trip. The Lake Tahoe Spectacular died mainly due to economics. The Octagon house that we rented every year near Carnelian Bay was crazy cheap–25 people could stay there ‘cozily’–and the group dinner was always a ‘spectacular’ effort. With a full kitchen and an outdoor grill on the back deck dinners there were well prepared and a group effort. But the Octagon was withdrawn from the rental market, later sold, and the new owners renovated the house and the dorm accommodations went the way of the wooly mammoth. Oh, and the price went way up too. With so many SF techies having cashed out and moved to Tahoe during the Pandemic not only is rental housing at a premium but the Tahoe area is much more congested making cycling the lake more tedious and a lot like, uh, cycling in the Bay Area! In other words, what’s the point of going up there?

So here’s a final farewell to beloved club trips of yore!

The Russian River Weekend, or Guerneville Overnighter used to take place every summer, usually mid-July to mid-August depending on the availability of camp sites and rooms. The last time we held a Russian River Weekend was in 2010. For the counting impaired that’s ten years ago. Ten. Years. [Now it’s 16 years.] However that’s not because we haven’t tried. In 2012 as part of the 30th Anniversary Ride series I tried to put together a Guerneville weekend but ran into the problem that has been a headache ever since: we no longer have a suitable venue to host the weekend. Finding the right lodging is like that conundrum about bikes—’cheap, light, or strong: pick any two’—except for Guerneville lodging it’s ‘cheap, cozy, or convenient: pick any two’. But more on that later. [In 2022 I encountered the exact same problem.]

The Russian River Weekend goes back to the very first year of the club’s existence, 1983. It wasn’t the first Different Spokes trip—that honor goes to the ‘Thanksgiving On The Road’ (later called the Pigeon Point Overnighter), which was, astonishingly, the very first official club ride. (No, Tib loop was not the first club ride!) There actually were other rides before the inaugural ride but they were when the club was nascent; Thankgiving On The Road was the first one announced to the public. The RRW was ‘only’ the third overnight trip we offered. You may not know that the club offered many overnight trips through the early years with the majority of them requiring camping. Keep in mind that the club was formed by recreational cyclists with a touring bent although that interest in touring was soon to diminish as the club grew and the prospect of sleeping on anything other than 600-thread count Egyptian cotton sheets evoked shrieks of dismay by the newer members. All of those trips have long faded away and only two survived into the 21st century, the Lake Tahoe Spectacular (also now moribund) and the RRW.

Michael John with Kevin Anderson (aka ‘Flo Velcro’ & ‘Rex Flash, Mountainbiker’)


The Russian River Weekend came from the fertile mind of Michael John, who long ago moved [back] to the East Coast where he still resides. Although not a founder Michael John was an early mover in the club, serving as the ChainLetter newsletter editor, all-around cheerleader, and later President. [MJ actually was President and Editor at the same time. Whew!] MJ also led several big tours for the club including one in the San Juan Islands, New England, and from Seattle to SF. His first RRW set the template for subsequent iterations: ride up to Guerneville on Friday, do rides in the Russian River basin (or not!) on Saturday, and then return to San Francisco on Sunday. The first trip was the full monty: ride up, ride more, and ride back.

Karry Kelley on the Larkspur ferry back to SF

Shortly thereafter some bright mind–probably MJ–realized that riding back Sunday could be cut comfortably shorter by riding just to the Larkspur Ferry Terminal and catching the boat back to SF. But the shorter ride had a cost: you had to keep a steady (read: fast) pace and not dally in order to catch that mid-afternoon ferry to SF. No shopping adventures! If you missed that ferry, you had to wait a couple more hours for the next one, in which case you might as well just pedal back to SF.

Although copious bike riding was perhaps the centerpiece of the weekend, it needn’t be. Most participants couldn’t do the Friday ride so they came up after work or early on Saturday. And if cycling wasn’t your boy/girlfriend’s thing or you needed Saturday to recover, there were plenty of other things to keep you occupied including wine tasting or lounging in the river on an inner tube or by the pool at Fife’s to, uh, take in the sights. If you drove up, you could skip riding on Sunday altogether for more lounging or join the return riders partway before heading back to Guerneville to pack up and drive back. There were also several bars and dance/music venues where you could do exactly what you did in SF: hang out and try to pick someone up.

Different Spokes with LA Spokesmen (now Different Spokes SoCal) at Guerneville

The Guerneville Overnighter was not just an indulgence in cycling excess; it was by design a subversive social event as well. Instead of having riders decamp to whatever lodging they might have scrounged up on their own, MJ had booked a group of campsites at Fife’s not just to keep the weekend cheap but to keep the group together. Fife’s as well as the very idea of gay men and women camping was perhaps a vestige—nay signature!—of the era, sort of back-to-the-land, granola hippie lifestyle crossed with Dynasty. However if sleeping in a tent just was too louche, you could rent a cabana at Fife’s for the weekend instead. The price for the weekend if you camped? About $20!

Fife’s has long given up the ghost having been replaced by the Dawn Ranch Lodge. It was/is right at the west entrance of downtown Guerneville and had a mix of inexpensive (read: down market) cabanas and camp sites along with a restaurant, swimming pool and outside bar with plenty of seating where one could take in the fabulous sights.

How could you forget Drums??

Oh, and its dance hall, Drums, was just across the street where you could boogie down to the latest disco. [Or, head out to the Hexagon near Armstrong Woods to see and hear Sylvester!]

Camp DSSF at Fife’s

Fife’s had a large camping area towards the river, which was good for a couple of reasons. It was far enough away from the road, Drums, and Fife’s own noisy bar that the racket didn’t keep us awake all night. However the noise in some of the adjacent tents might (did!) as well as the inebriated partyers wandering back to their tents in the dark after last call. It also afforded the club some privacy and allowed us to take over a big area for our own ‘Camp DSSF’.

Fun climb out of Muir Beach!

About the ride up. The route up on Friday has changed over the years. Initially it was taking Highway 1 to Valley Ford and then cutting up the Bohemian Highway to River Road and thence to Guerneville. That route was about 88 miles. [The first route MJ led in reality went up Highway One to Jenner and then east on River Road. This became the first AIDS Bike-A-Thon route. Later it was shortened by using the Bohemian Highway.] Sometime in the ‘90s or so, maybe even later—I’m not sure of the year—the coast route was deemed too grueling and some riders shifted to riding inland through Fairfax and Nicasio in order to skip the two big-ass hills out of Sausalito and Muir Beach.

Snack break in Stinson Beach

Either way there was usually a headwind at some point so character building was a feature of the ride. Incidentally the Friday route for the Guerneville Overnighter was used as the basis of the first AIDS Bike-A-Thon route in 1985. [This statement is incorrect. See above.] Both MJ and Bob Humason, the two DSSF prime movers of that first BAT, designed the route (well, it was mostly MJ–he even drew the map) and made it a hundred miles by staying on Highway 1 to River Road instead of cutting up the Bohemian Highway to Monte Rio. (In all later BATs the routes were loops out of the Castro rather than a point-to-point to Guerneville.)

How to summon the sag wagon…

That ride up wasn’t a classic tour however: the fortuitous arrangement of a sag wagon to haul camping gear, all manner of cosmetics, multiple changes of clothing, and food set the bar low enough that non-tourers could prance their way up to Guerneville sans panniers and enjoy slogging up the hills without 30 extra pounds of crap on their bikes. From that point on a sag wagon for Guerneville wasn’t just a luxury, it was a necessity!

Strangely, after the first Guerneville Overnighter in July 1983 it took only a month for the second Guerneville to take place courtesy of Peter Renteria, who was one of the founders of the club. [Peter was not a founder but one of the very early members.] This time however was ‘Guerneville lite’ as there was no ride up or back. His GO was definitely a different animal as eleven participants carpooled up on Friday and did short rides on Saturday and Sunday (if they rode at all). This time they stayed at the Highlands Resort. But this GO was the exception as it wasn’t a tour at all but more in line with what we now know as a ‘getaway weekend’.

Ride out to Duncan Mills via Cazadero


Saturday rides were optional and for those who rode up having the day off and lounging by the river was a welcome break. Two popular rides were the wineries route up Westside to Healdsburg and back on Eastside and a jaunt to Cazadero and/or Duncan Mills and back. Those looking for a bigger ride would continue west of Cazadero out Fort Ross Road and Meyers Grade with a return along River Road. The Sunday ride was the return to SF (or the Larkspur Ferry Terminal).

Sunday brunch at Howard’s Station in Occidental

In later years most if not all riders didn’t ride back at all, and the Sunday ride became a short roll out to Occidental to get brunch at Howard’s Station and then return to Guerneville to drive home.

Dinner: beer, white wine, hot dogs…
…Safeway Deli’s finest…


The highlight of those early GOs was the Saturday night dinner. When we camped at Fife’s, coming up with a group dinner took a bit of ingenuity. The ‘kitchen’ consisted of picnic tables, a grotty barbecue grill, perhaps a propane stove, and ice chests. Oh, and a big portion of the meal consisted of hastily purchased deli items from the Safeway down the street. (Hmm, does that sound familiar?) Early Guernevilles were, to my recollection, somewhat haphazard in meal preparation but folks always seemed eager to pitch in. As was expected it was hardly ‘haute’ (unless you consider ‘haute’ dogs to be debonair food) but at least it was filling, ‘home’ prepared, and not bad given the primitive circumstances, being just one step above true camp cooking [or below, depending on your point of view]. It’s hard to ruin hamburgers and hot dogs. I don’t recall exactly what MJ made for dessert, a literal pièce de résistance, but it was always the highlight: an easy-to-whip-up cake made of Twinkies©, Cool Whip©, and some other gastronomic atrocities. A sort of campy white trash (or stoner) tiramisu. [Ah, MJ’s dessert was the “Cosmo Girl Dream Cake”: 1 box Hostess Twinkies, 1 large package Cool Whip, and maraschino cherries. “Place five Twinkies (holes down) side by side in a row on a small serving plate. Top with layer of Cool Whip, then another layer of five Twinkies. Cover entire cake with one-inch layer of Cool Whip. Chill for three hours. Before serving, arrange several maraschino cherries on top.”]

…and Bingo!

After dinner folks trotted off to the bars such as the Rainbow Cattle Company or the Woods or Drums to dance and party on. However diehard Spokers hung around the campsite to chat, gossip, and play…Bingo.

2005 catered dinner at the Willows

As time went on we eventually moved over the Willows [Now called the Guerneville Lodge.] and the meals got considerably upscaled since we now had a full kitchen at our disposal to prepare the dinner. It became possible to prepare pasta dishes (do you know how long it takes to get a big pot of water to boil on a propane stove??) as well as keep things chilled (like ice cream). I don’t recall the exact motivation for moving to the Willows. But it was probably a combination of Fife’s rates going up, the difficulty in getting reservations there, and the noise and commotion in contrast to the relative peace and quiet at the Willows.

The Willows lawn and camping area

The Willows was at the opposite end of town. The atmosphere there was completely different than Fife’s, which was party central. The Willows had a beautiful lawn that sloped down to the Russian River with plentiful camp sites. Like Fife’s if you didn’t want to camp you could get a room but instead of cabanas it had individual rooms in the main building.

Phil and Scott enjoying water sports

There wasn’t a swimming pool but in lieu you had the hot tub on the back deck and easy access to the river. It was a lot more pleasant place to spend a weekend. In later years even though we were still going to the Willows the hassle of preparing a dinner for larger and larger groups led to hiring a caterer to prepare the Saturday dinner especially since the number of Spokers increased; I believe one year it was 50 people. The loss of the camaraderie in preparing a meal together was replaced with the meal being a restful happy hour for all rather than a source of consternation and anxiety for some (and usually delay for everyone).

During the late Aughts the Willows shut down and underwent an ownership change. Fife’s was out of the picture having morphed into the Dawn Ranch Lodge also after a period of having been shut down. Russian River Weekends took place but with people having to scrounge up lodging on their own and the Saturday dinner became a restaurant meal. The new owners of the Willows welcomed us back but eventually they too succumbed to the stress of running an inn and the Willows became less amenable to having us there.

Which led to a quandary: was there still an economical lodge on the River that would welcome a cycling club and allow us to host the Russian River Weekend in the traditional way? And would the club even care?

And She Lived Happily Ever After…

Some fairy tales don’t have happy endings

It wasn’t a fairytale ending. Today marked the 50th anniversary of the Cinderella Classic by the Valley Spokesmen Bicycle Club. It was also the last one as I just found out this morning at registration. Roger and I have worked the Cinderella for about 25 years. We aren’t exactly in the core of VSBC and in fact we rarely join their rides. But when we have we always have had a good time and enjoyed the company. Clearly the club has been planning the end of the venerable century for some time because the next club project was announced today too: a cycling fundraiser next year in conjunction with Habitat for Humanity East Bay to raise money to build low income housing.

But back to the Cinderella. A big storm was threatening to spoil the party. This has happened several times at the Cinderella because it’s an early spring ride, always a bit of a gamble for a club. We got up at 4:30 AM in order to be ready to run a registration table opening at 6. It wasn’t raining while we drove down and the roads got drier the further south we went. Nonetheless we were expecting a small turnout due to the weather forecast and prepared ourselves to be bored and twiddling our thumbs. That didn’t happen: tons of women and girls showed up. There were even two riders who wanted to get registered before 6 AM to head out! As the morning wore on, there was successive pulses of riders showing up making registration hectic. As usual many were clad in colorful tutus and tiaras along with all manner of cycling (and non-cycling) attire. You would never mistake the Cinderella for a race! There was way too much glitter, elaborate headgear, and gaudy accoutrements over their rain jackets and tights. The last hurrah was going out with a bang.

There were over 700 riders preregistered. The day-of-event registration next to us was doing a steady business. That seemed weird because instead of deterring riders the weather seemed to have brought them out to play. We guessed that total registration was probably between 750 to 800. That’s not a bad turnout—for example, the Grizzly Peak Century caps registration at 1,000—but for the Cinderella it was just a sign of the times because less than 20 years ago the registration cap was 2,500. Yea, how the mighty have fallen. It’s all part of a region-wide trend. Other local centuries—the Wine Country, Primavera, Tierra Bella—regularly sold out. Now they have to hawk registration right up the day of event. Given the dire threat of heavy rain, it was comforting to know that there were a lot of women who were going to do the nasty anyway and ride headlong into the storm. Of course we don’t know exactly how many actually showed up because we were just one of several registration tables.

I spoke with Bonnie Powers, one of the founders of the event and who still oversees registration (plus many other tasks), and she said that the event had changed over the years and it wasn’t the same. I inferred she meant that there was less participation, less enthusiasm. Back in the day a women/girl-only century was innovative if not provocative. Now perhaps it’s deemed ho-hum. Or, perhaps successive generations of cyclists don’t get excited about centuries the way their elders did/do. Nonetheless fifty years is a good, long run. The impact of dwindling interest is that Valley Spokemen is no longer garnering the kind of cash to donate to local women’s organizations so the original mission of the ride has been left by the side of the road.

It looks like next year’s fundraiser will be open to women and men. As far as I know that leaves Little Red in Utah as the sole women-only century ride in the US.

Speaking of men, working registration we get a chance to see who’s showing up for these rides. This was the first time we saw men register for the event. I was taken aback—was this someone transgender or had there been a furtive policy change? The event is specifically for women and girls yet I checked in two men. There have probably been men who poached the ride in the past but I had never encountered a man officially registered. I asked Bonnie about this and she was surprised too: the event was still women only. Well, it won’t be an issue ever again!

Occasionally we see Spokers but since the days of Chris LaRussell as president along with uber-Cinderella booster Sharon Lum we rarely see members participate. We did run into an old BAC acquaintance and it was nice to see she’s doing well and still riding her bike. Cathy had told me she was riding but we didn’t see her. She may have checked in at another table but I am guessing that since it’s a long drive from SF to do a ride that was going to get rained on, she decided to sit it out.

A few other observations. We helped a lot of women with putting on the registration wrist band. What we saw was a bazillion Apple watches on wrists. Sure, there were women who didn’t have a wrist watch or maybe it was on their right wrist instead. But the majority of women had watches and the vast majority of them had Apple watches. We saw a total of three Garmin watches, a couple of Fitbit-type wrist bands, and exactly two old-school analog watches. Agewise it was certainly notable how many senior women there were. A lot of them were veterans and had done the Cinderella at least once previously. One woman was sporting about fifteen patches from previous Cinderellas. I’m guessing some of the seniors were encouraged by the club’s Feather Pedals training rides, which seems to be very effective at recruiting and supporting newer riders. Roger thinks it was skewed towards the senior set. But I noticed a variety of ages; there were quite a few mother-daughter teams. The Cinderella allows the minors to ride at no cost if they’re accompanied by an adult. It was especially gratifying to see young women doing the ride: there’s our next generation of cyclists.

Were there racers? In the past it used to be common to see women who clearly had a racing background, either current or former team kit. You can’t tell a lot about a person’s ability by their bike because anyone with enough income can get the latest and greatest. But if you’re sporting team kit you had to be on the team. This year the racers weren’t as evident. The Cinderella is inclusive and clothes snobbery just isn’t a ‘thing’. The bike clothes we saw was modest for the most part; I saw one person with an Assos jacket, two people wearing Rapha, and one in Velocio shorts. That’s it. Riding in SF and Marin I’m struck by the multitude of Rapha bros as well as MAAP and Pas Normal kit. Not at the Cinderella.

Ethnicitywise it was predominantly white. There were some Asians and hardly anyone African-American. Is that a reflection of who’s into cycling, the income needed to cycle, or the local population?

Registration closed at 10 AM and we left. It still wasn’t raining. But by the time we arrived back in Orinda it was raining pretty hard. My guess is that if you finished your ride by 11, you were pretty much safe from getting drenched. But after that it has been periods of very heavy downpours interspersed with lulls and even a bit of sunshine.

I’m sorry to see the Cinderella go. It’s been a part of Roger’s and my history and I applaud Valley Spokesmen for its long commitment to this ride. Next year’s event is called Cycle of Hope and it’s on May 23. We’ll likely be involved with that club event but it won’t be the same as the Cinderella: no tutus, tiaras, and wild clothing. The energy has always been special. I’m not sure Prince Charming ever made an appearance though.

(If you want to read about the really wet Cinderella in 2012: https://dssf.home.blog/2012/04/02/cinderella-2012-flahuttes/)

Ride Recap: Pedaling Paths to Independence 2026

Get on down
I wanna get on the good foot
Ho! Good foot
I got to get on the good foot

—James Brown

February 28 I got up at the crack of dawn to drive to Linden, CA for the Pedaling Paths to Independence metric century. This was a major accomplishment for me because just a week before Christmas I had surgery to remove a femoral bone tumor. I hadn’t been able to cycle much since July and had mostly been physically inert as the tumor made even walking painful.

My surgical recovery was fairly benign (pun intended). Being characterologically impatient I tried to get on the bike way too early. Pain put paid to that idea. Presurgery I had mapped out a plan to be ready for the DSSF Velo Love ride on Valentine’s Day and then Pedaling Paths two weeks later. This was all governed by my ignorance of how recovery from surgery—it was my first ever—actually unfolds. I discovered that cut up flesh doesn’t like to move, be stretched, or be jostled for a long time. Disheartened I abandoned the idea of doing both rides and removed the ride listings.

After meeting with my surgeon, I started to ride again on February 2. Everything I did was slow, short, flat, and steady. I was probably in the worst athletic condition in my entire adult life, a consequence of being physically inert for five months. Before Pedaling Paths I had managed a grand total of 250 miles; the longest ride I had done was 33 miles.

Then the weather forecast started to look upbeat: it was predicted to be sunny, dry, and 74F. I hemmed and hawed. As Nike says, “Just do it!” I registered with days to spare. It was either going to be a major overstep—a sufferfest—or I would have to ride really, really smart.

No one in the club that I know of other than David Go., Jeff M., and Stephanie C. has manifested any interest in going out to Linden, CA for this lovely ride. The fact that about every third or fourth year it gets rained on doesn’t help its allure. Sometime ago, maybe around 2015, Pedaling Paths caught my eye and I’ve been hooked.

Century rides historically have been put on by cycling clubs looking to raise a little money for the club coffer. A few nonprofits such as the Multiple Sclerosis Society early on did fundraising rides. Now Lions Clubs and Rotary Clubs as well as small nonprofits have been looking for alternate ways to raise money and have jumped into the century business much to our benefit. Pedaling Paths is seventeen years old and has been raising money for the Community Center for the Blind and Visually Impaired in Stockton. However its central organizer appears to be the Stockton-Delta Amateur Radio Club. Some centuries have radio support to handle sag wagons and emergencies but having a radio club be the actual organizer is unusual.

Doing these smaller, quieter centuries—usually well out of the Bay Area—has been an eye-opener. Pedaling Paths probably has less than three or four hundred riders and that’s in a good year. The smaller number and the enthusiastic volunteers have made the event friendly and neighborly. Contrast that with the Solvang Century—at its peak well over 7,000 riders—where I felt anonymous, lost in the crowd (literally) and the whole thing felt very business-like. (It was.) These small, local rides are also less expensive. With centuries routinely costing more than $100, doing a handful each year can clean out your wallet pretty fast. A consequence is that I’ve been much more selective. I’d rather drive far away for something smaller and friendlier than do the mass event rides that are common in the Bay Area.

I rather like raising money for CCBVI. Agencies that serve people with disabilities, particularly the blind and low vision population are gutted these days. It’s not flashy like AIDS or Parkinson’s but these everyday services for people with disabilities are essential even if they don’t have the cachet and virtue signaling possibilities of current ‘Pity Pathologies’.

The drive out to Linden on a Saturday morning isn’t bad, about 85 miles (from Orinda), which is only a little bit further than going from SF to Gilroy for the Tierra Bella (79 miles). The traffic is light and since this event is on the small side there isn’t a spate of cars clogging tiny little Linden. Being a metric Pedaling Paths doesn’t require an early start. There’s no need to hit the road at a ridiculously early time; I left the manse at 7:30. They officially open the gates at 8:30 and I got to Linden at 9. The route has been essentially the same since the beginning: a loop through the nut orchards east of Linden, a zigzag drop southeast to Woodward Reservoir, and then north through the foothills and cherry orchards before heading southwest back to Linden. The total elevation gain is less than 1,500 feet making this metric a good season starter. The route encompasses various kinds of orchards, pasture land and cattle ranches, stockyards (you can’t miss the smell!), and beautiful, quiet country roads. The only downer is maybe a west wind in the afternoon when you’re heading back to Linden and already tired.

Two years ago I barely survived Pedaling Paths. I had a decent number of miles under my belt. Then for three weeks before the event I was off the bike on a car tour. I tried to ride it smart and almost failed due to technology mishaps. It was pretty grueling although completing the ride left me exuberant if worn out. This year my confidence was shaky. I’m older and can no longer jump on the bike after a long hiatus and be grinding out a century in a matter of a few weeks; body parts are a lot less resilient let alone my mentality, which grows more fragile with each passing year.

I was attempting to do a ‘David Goldsmith’. Last year amidst a short comeback from yet another physical setback David decided to ride San Francisco to San Jose on probably about the same number of miles I had this year, i.e. paltry. He completed the whole thing with only one short episode going up a short rise when the day’s effort became evident. There’s a thin line between suffering and fun when you attempt a big ride on little miles. Overall his spirits were good and if he was suffering he didn’t let on. I should be so lucky…

I did the entire ride and had a fabulous time. The weather cooperated—sunny and warm—and the rolling hills were verdant providing a scenic backdrop that I could actually enjoy since I wasn’t exhausted. This year it seemed there were fewer riders. But I had started later and the 8:30 crowd was well ahead of me and probably went much faster than I. When I made it back to the finish, the dining area was packed, which confirmed that there was a lively crowd in attendance. I had ridden alone the entire time, barely seeing anyone else except at the rest stops thus reducing any temptation to “keep up”. My goal was to average about 12 miles per hour and I ended up at 13.6 for the 65.5 miles. The entire time I stayed well within my comfort range and never pushed it. That I had the discipline to do so was shocking as I’m a ‘burn those matches, baby’ kind of guy. “It can’t hurt to go a little faster.” “I’ll push it just up this rise and then slow down.”

My biggest fear was leg cramps. I rarely got them when I was young; now I get them with abandon. I suspect a contributing factor is that I’m ‘old school’: push the big gears especially on climbs. Back in the day Shimano came out with a 26-tooth cassette cog, which we all thought that was crazy low. Now I have friends who are riding with 42-tooth cogs. Such is change. I don’t fear the granny anymore. And yes, I’m so old school that I use a triple!

My new BFF!

At the first rest stop I made a wonderful discovery: Uncrustables™. I can’t say that the food on Pedaling Paths is haute cuisine even by cycling standards, more like haute Clif Bar. But they don’t skimp on quantity, and this year I found a large box of Uncrustables, probably picked up at Costco. What is this shit? It’s totally decadent, a sign that civilization as we know it is collapsing: a pre-made peanut butter and jelly sandwich made by Smuckers. Roger and I make our own PBJ sandwiches for big rides and this was nothing like it. Ours are made with organic whole wheat bread, Pic’s peanut butter (from New Zealand, with high oleic peanuts), and Roger’s homemade nectarberry jam. Uncrustables, on the other hand, are just plain peanut butter (full of sugar), Smuckers jam (sugar), and white bread. They come frozen so you can jam a few in your pocket or bag and let them thaw out. What’s so great about them? It’s the packaging: the bread is pinched around the edges to contain the peanut butter and jam inside, like a turnover. Of course the jam is in the center surrounded by peanut butter so that it doesn’t drench the bread. The whole thing is in an easy-tear plastic package so you can stick them in your pocket. These are amazing because they’re easy to open and easy to eat without your fingers getting covered in jam. It’s the messy food made just for neat freaks. They don’t taste bad either. (Judgment may have been swayed by intense hunger since I hadn’t had breakfast.) I woofed down a few of those before heading back on the road; I felt much better!

It’s hard to pick a favorite section of the route. The first third has the nut orchards rolling into pasture land to the first rest stop. The middle third is cattle country turning into rolling hills and cherry orchards to the lunch stop. After lunch it’s more quiet roads and a few rollers before ending in Linden. The middle section in the past has had the motos and Speed Racers zooming by, but not this year; it was totally quiet and I was lost in thought, pondering whether or not I would try to press it up each roller or take it easy. I was keeping my eye on my heart rate and even more on my cadence in order not to wear out my legs and induce cramps.

The lunch stop is at the Milton cemetery. It’s in the middle of nowhere, i.e. Milton, a collection of about a half-dozen farmsteads. A 150 years ago there were more because Milton was the end of the Southern Pacific railroad. Now it’s not even a ghost town because whatever old buildings there were have mostly disappeared. Consorting with the dead at a cemetery may not be advisable although breaking bread with them is the one exception. Every year it’s the same food: white bread sandwiches, either turkey and cheese or ham and cheese. And the cheese is always American. For salt it was potato chips, a snack I can never refuse and I made sure to inhale a lot of them because salt. It all tasted really good, food snobbery aside.

For such a small century they sure have a lot of sag cars, at least five. At the lunch stop a sag driver asked me how I was doing. I told him I was doing great considering I had surgery just two months ago. With a smile he gestured to me to get into the truck. I told him I was gonna finish the ride even if it killed me. So far, so good though.

Leaving lunch I got schooled by some fellow oldsters. These old farts were hauling ass making me look and feel like I was my age. I let them go. That was the Devil tempting me, “C’mon, just go a little faster. You can catch them!” Not today, Satan. Some miles ahead they had stopped for some reason, maybe a mechanical. Soon they caught up with me, took a look at my old Rivendell and started to ooh-and-aah at the lugs. “They don’t make them like that anymore, do they?” No, they don’t. I love my Rivendell and it was the perfect bike for a day like today: smooth ride, low gears, upright position. The Riv is no slouch when I want to go fast and it has a Cadillac ride made even smoother by rolling slowly.

I must have been doing something right. Between lunch and the last rest stop is where I’ve run into problems before, i.e. massive leg cramps, but today it was smooth sailing. Nary a cramp to be seen. No headwind from the west helped. I’ll take it!

I actually passed someone on a short rise. He was a really big guy riding an old school, lugged steel beauty like I was. He probably outweighed me by a hundred pounds but he was spinning smoothly. When I see a smooth spin like that I know he’s the real thing. Apparently he’s still a racer because I became his target shortly thereafter and he started to chase me. No matter. I kept my pace. The rollers took their toll on him—he’d get closer on the downhills and drift back on the rises. A couple of those probably wore him out before he disappeared.

I got to Linden without a hint of fatigue. I felt pretty good considering I hadn’t ridden anything close to 65 miles in the past year. I managed to ride steadily if slowly and it was the right plan for a no-miles century. The end-of-ride meal was the same: roasted chicken, pesto pasta, green salad, and focaccia. Man, it sure tasted good.

There are centuries where all I can think of is for the ride to end as quickly as possible. Those rides are more like races to me: just get it over. Mostly what I remember of them is the discomfort, trying to pass as many people as possible, and urgency, i.e. “time hunger”. Then there are rides like this one. What I remember is the quiet, the peacefulness, the comfortable weather, and the beautiful countryside. Learning to ride slowly is unappreciated. It may take longer but boy, I sure had a much better time.

A cup of coffee later and I was ready to head home. It was 80F. On the last day of February! No pain, no pain. What a great day. I’m looking forward to next year already.

The Dirty Secret of Suburban Roads

McEwen Road: What evil lurks at commute time…

It’s difficult to generalize about cycling in Bay Area suburbs because they are so varied. At one extreme are suburbs at the edge of the metropolis such as Hollister, Clayton, or Fairfield; the other end are those centrally located and cities in their own right such as Berkeley or Walnut Creek. Some suburbs have “graduated” into true metropolises in their own right such as Oakland and San Jose. Cycling in Oakland or San Jose is not unlike cycling in San Francisco. But cycling in Orinda or Woodside is significantly different.

Having lived in San Francisco for many years before moving to the East Bay a comment I’ve heard repeatedly from fellow suburbanites is, “I’d never cycle in San Francisco. It’s so dangerous!” That sort of comment amused me because when I was living in SF, which was the 1980s and ‘90s, I found it safer to ride in the City than in the Midpeninsula, where I had lived previously. Traffic was slower in the City because of the numerous stop signs (and now congestion) and drivers were more used to driving among cyclists. That isn’t to say it was all hunkydory. Drivers are just as inattentive in SF as they are everywhere and the constant sensory bombardment in the City can drown out the presence of cyclists rendering us practically invisible at times. In contrast after moving back to the exurbs I found that drivers here were used to barreling down streets at 40+ MPH regardless of the speed limit so used were they to the near complete lack of other road users except cars. Plus, although gargantuan SUVs roam everywhere now, when I moved in the early Aughts to Contra Costa it seemed like every car over here was a SUV. I was missing all those SF stop signs that slowed drivers down! Drivers everywhere are impatient but suburban drivers are more so because they aren’t used to having to slow down. And when they do, their reaction isn’t resignation, it’s outrage because that isn’t supposed to happen in the ‘burbs. After all, that’s one of the reasons people like living there: car freedom and plentiful parking. You don’t have to hunt for parking near your home as I used to in SF nor worry about getting a ticket for forgetting to move your car for street cleaning.

Cycling in Contra Costa is a mixed bag as I noticed two weeks ago on Chris’s ride from Lafayette to Martinez and back. More open space, a greener (or soon to be, browner) ambiance, and roads that aren’t lined with midrise buildings, homes, or strip malls are a welcome relief. They may not qualify as true “green showers”; nonetheless I find myself refreshed after riding on the “semi-rural” roads of Orinda.

But there is a dirty, little secret about riding in Contra Costa and perhaps in other suburbs around the Bay. During commute hours some of those pleasant semi-rural roads turn into thrilling race tracks as commuters bomb down them to avoid congested expressways. Some of these roads have been commuter cut-throughs from time immemorial and then evolved into arterials in their own right such as Crow Canyon Road. Now Crow Canyon is clogged at the commute hours as well.

We rode up Reliez Valley Road in Lafayette and then Alhambra Valley Road on our way out to Franklin Canyon, which is “semi-rural”. I had some trepidation because Reliez is notorious for its morning congestion. Reliez is a narrow two-lane road that funnels a lot of cars out of north Lafayette down to Highway 24. Alhambra Valley Road is another cut-through for Martinez folks to avoid Highway 4 and Highway 680 by zooming towards the Three Bears into Orinda. From there they can either head up Wildcat if going to Berkeley or to Highway 24 to head further west. I usually ride on these roads on weekends and the traffic is less volatile. Fortunately my concern was for naught as we were riding late enough in the morning that the pulse of traffic had abated and we were able to cycle unperturbed by the few cars that whistled by us. Alhambra Valley was pretty much the same: some car traffic but none high-speed and no sociopathic behavior. Our return route eventually took us onto Taylor Boulevard. This is a major, high-speed arterial funneling traffic throughout Pleasant Hill towards Highway 24. It’s actually a mini-highway with divided four-lane traffic. I believe the legal speed limit on Taylor is at least 50 MPH and cars certainly go much faster than that between the few stoplights. Its one lifesaving attribute is that it has a wide shoulder for cyclists. Luckily we dodged the afternoon traffic on Taylor because we were cycling before the afternoon commute.

Taylor Boulevard doesn’t hide its colors: it’s obvious that it’s a high-speed thoroughfare and having four divided lanes isn’t exactly what you would expect for a pastoral road. However there are plenty of “semi-rural” roads in the suburbs where the sudden presence of rice rockets and Joe Commuter Late-For-The-Office is going to shock you. Near me we have Pinehurst Road, a beautiful narrow road climbing from Moraga up to Skyline Boulevard through a canopy of redwood trees next to a babbling stream, a picture-perfect representation of a country road. This is part of the route for the Orinda Pool Party and its a showcase for what cycling could be like…if you lived in Humboldt County! I love this ride not only for its soothing ambiance but also because it’s got a challenging climb/descent. However Pinehurst is also a commuter cut-through because of the congestion on Highway 24. In the morning 24 is jammed heading west and commuters from the Moraga area use it to get over to bayside rather than enduring a bumper-to-bumper, slow slog from Moraga to Orinda and then yet more slog on 24. In the afternoon the congestion on 24 heading east is even worse. It regularly backs up for miles and also clogs the traffic on Highway 13 trying to get to the Caldecott Tunnels. So the poor suckers stuck on 13 just cut through Montclair and Oakland up to Skyline and drop down Pinehurst. It only took me a couple of experiences riding up Pinehurst in the afternoon on a weekday to realize I would never do that again, not just because of the level of traffic but because drivers’ frustration at slow traffic was vented through some seriously fast and dangerous speeds on this narrow, curvy road with less-than-generous sightlines.

I mentioned cut-through traffic on Alhambra Valley. Some of that traffic ends up on the Three Bears. Most of you have ridden the Bears and think it’s wonderful—quiet, roomy, surrounded by ranch and park lands. On weekdays it can host a legion of commuters avoiding the mess on Highways 24 and 680. But the Bears (Bear Creek Road) is not narrow at all and the shoulders and sightlines are pretty good; I’ve ridden it on weekdays and although the traffic can be fast it doesn’t strike me as unnerving as it does on Pinehurst. That said I avoid it during the commute hours.

Redwood Road is another quiet, semi-rural road that has this Jekyl-and-Hyde personality. Redwood connects Castro Valley to Moraga and flows between the park land on one side and EBMUD reservoirs on the other. There is literally no development on it. It can be curvy, dark, and narrow. But sections of it are more open. It regularly is driven by motos and sports cars because it takes skill to drive it quickly and thus it has become an informal practice track; I’ve seen the same cars or motos go back-and forth as they try different speeds, leans, and attack angles in the corners. It also is a cut-through for commuters trying to avoid 880 and 13.

So although life out here can be very lovely, appearances can be deceiving especially if you only go slumming in the ‘burbs on the weekends. But would I trade cycling in the Contra Costa for San Francisco? Not on your life!