We were coming up on the third anniversary of David Sexton’s death. Three years ago he was a victim of a hit-and-run in Richmond, a murder that is still unresolved. By chance we were thinking of heading up to ride Mt. Veeder since it had been three years since we last traversed that climb. We got some friends of Gordon to come along to enjoy the day and Gordon agreed to meet us for lunch. Cycling up Veeder was a near-perfect ride to honor his memory. Alas, a life stolen. The gods adore those who die young.
We started at Buttercream Bakery in Napa. This place is a blast from the past at least in terms of commercial decor. It looks like something out of the 1950s, no surprise since it opened here 75 years ago. The pastries are excellent. After a brief tour of the residentail areas of Napa on the west side we started going slowly up. Then the road started going up more quickly and I was going up more slowly!

Confessions of an Aged Cyclist
As I tediously pulled over into the little bit of shade at the top of Veeder, Jen said, “Look at you! You’re not even using your lowest gear!” My legs were pretty whipped—the last mile or so of Veeder is 10% so it’s no walk in the park. Nonetheless there I was honking a 39×24 gear all the way up. After I caught my breath, I blurted out, “I don’t go lower than this gear because it was the lowest gear I ever used when I was 30 and hella strong.” Now, what’s the formal definition of ‘delusional’? Let’s see, my dictionary says: “characterized by or holding false beliefs or judgment about external reality that are held despite incontrovertible evidence to the contrary, typically as a symptom of a mental condition”. Yeah, that sounds about right. I can’t admit that I’ve gotten old (note: not getting old but gotten old) despite every day having the bare facts shoved in my face. As they say, denial is not just a river in Egypt.
When faced with a choice of relenting and using a lower gear and likely going objectively faster, or continuing to deny reality and mash that “low” gear at a ridiculously sluggish cadence, I choose the latter. At the moment my delusion/excuse is that after losing a lot of muscle mass this last year, I could gain some of it back (Blanche, it’s never all coming back!) by mashing. I’m too lazy to go to the gym and do proper squats. But what’s the point? I’m not racing and my bike has a granny that will get me up anything in the Bay Area even on a bad day. One day reality will come crashing through the front door and smash me in the face when my body ultimately fails me. DNR. In the meantime I can continue in denial. “But you are, Blanche, you are!”
History
At the top of Veeder we took a well-earned break. Remember when you didn’t take breaks on rides? Or rather, you didn’t need to take breaks. As we were guzzling our water and Nancy’s cookies, three very fit women came up the other side of Veeder. We all commented on how wonderful it was that Veeder had so little traffic on a holiday. Heading south up Veeder is the harder way. It does stairstep up but the worst of it comes right at the beginning with a fairly long leg that has to be greater than 12%. Coming up from the south it starts easy and the last mile and a half are somewhere around 10%, so not as bad. Someone asked where the name Veeder came from; none of us knew. Afterwards I looked it up. It’s named for a Dutch pastor, Peter Veeder, who lived in Napa during the Civil War era and hiked throughout the area.
Biblical rain, fire
The descent was a revelation. The last time Roger and I had ridden Veeder was in 2023 when a section of the road just north of the summit had collapsed from the torrential winter rains. The road was closed but that made it perfect for cycling. We were able to walk the bikes across the rubble and continue downward. Today we could see that there were several new retaining walls and sections of guardrails. Gordon told us later that PGE has been undergrounding the power lines and perhaps that was the reason for the new work. Veeder was also burned in the 2017 Nuns fire but you can’t see any obvious trace of the fire now.
Going down
You can either continue your descent down Oakville Grade, which is 15% and straight, or turn onto Dry Creek Road to head south back to Napa. In the old days of the club Oakville Grade was considered a benchmark climb. We’d start at the Oakville Grocery and start up. It’s not long but it’s foolishly steep. Oh, and in those days we didn’t have anything much lower than a 42×24 or a 39×23. The only way to make it up was to stand and honk. The descent was challenging but in a different way because you picked up speed scarily fast. It’s essentially straight down so it was a test of your bravery or foolishness. I always chickened out. Back then my alarm bell went off somewhere close to 40 MPH; nowadays my instinct for self-preservation has me hitting the brakes around 30 MPH. I remember Bruce Matasci blasting down like a rocket. Scary fast. Those who die young the gods adore.
We turned down Dry Creek to discover that, while never a road in great condition, it was perhaps slightly better than in 2023 when it was a disaster zone in all but name. The asphalt was not just uneven but had alligator cracking all over the place. I hit a pothole that I couldn’t see in a shady area—I was thankful I was on fat road tires. It used to be fun; now it’s more of a chore to take Dry Creek. The other option is to descend Oakville to the valley and then contend with a jillion cars. It might be better to ascend Dry Creek in the future. Or bring 42 mm tires! Despite my moaning about the road, the scenery is rural and placid—just what I was looking for.
While Dry Creek is mainly downhill there are several short uphills with the very last one being the worst. Just before you hit the valley there is an egregiously steep section—but short!—that I always manage to hit just when cars are passing. This time was no exception. It’s a cursed section of road. It sucks to be me.
We regrouped at Alston Park. This park now has real bathrooms and that’s a good thing. Once you start up Veeder there isn’t a public restroom. Does a bear shit in the woods? Yeah, and cyclists too. Alston Park, being in the city of Napa, has flush toilets and not the pit toilets that are common in the boondocks. At this point we were heading over to the east side of Napa before arriving at our destination—what else?—a restaurant for lunch!
Go East, Young Man
We were going to do one more loop before heading to lunch at Stateline Smokehouse. Most cyclists parade on the roads north of the city of Napa. Not many ply the roads east of town and south of the Silverado Trail. But this rural area—ranches and vineyards—is quiet and devoid of tourists the way the valley used to be before the wine industrial market came knocking at the door. We had to cut across town on Trancas, which is about as bad as it can get: a major arterial in town on a road lined with strip malls, a major shopping center, and the regional hospital. Dodging cars was not too gruesome because the stoplights seemed to be countersynced and all traffic had to slow down. The transition from city to rural is abrupt on the east side. If you’re heading up the Monticello Road, which most cyclists are, you’ll miss the Vichy Springs area. Here the terrain is gently rolling and the density is low. Horse paddocks are interspersed with grapes. You’re literally just a mile from strip malls! We dropped back into Napa and it was another world of crowds, cars, and commotion.
Getting Smoked
We got to Stateline Smokehouse and Gordon was already there holding our place in line. None of us had been to Stateline before. David Goldsmith recommended it but his recommendation was based on a TV review; he had never been there either. He’s on a barbecue/smoker kick these days after Chris gave him a home smoker. Finding good barbecue is not as bad as the search for the Grail. But there is a difference between ‘okay’ barbecue and something stellar. Once you’ve had stellar, you’re not looking back.
Stateline had a band jamming inside. Stateline also has an outdoor patio in the back and today it was mysteriously devoid of patrons, so we had the whole place to ourselves and could avoid the din. Stateline was started by a chef whose background and training are fine dining. Now he’s doing a more downhome joint and it was hopping. The line was out the door when we arrived. You order and follow your tray down the line to the cashier. In the meantime you can see what others have ordered and regret your choice (and recommit to coming back and trying more stuff). I saw some ribs that were amazing. What was I doing with a sandwich?? Well, at least I won’t be in a food coma afterwards. I can’t remember what Steph ordered but Jen had to make do with the side dishes because there were no main vegetarian dishes. Is Stateline being uncompromising or making a mistake in not capturing that part of the market? I’ve had smoked tofu before and there is absolutely no point when you can have smoked ribs. But it’s a choice only for those who have no other choice. So maybe Stateline is being uncompromising. Maybe some day they’ll perfect smoked tofu and when they do it’ll be hella delicious.

Roger and I had pulled pork sandwiches. They were pretty damn good. The best pulled pork sandwich I ever had was at the old Jimtown Store. Stateline’s was right up there. Gordon and Nancy got the fish special whose presentation was something you’d find at a place of fine dining: it was beautiful and appealing. Both exclaimed afterwards it was excellent. The coleslaw was different in not being mayonnaise based. Roger and I split a large and I could have easily eaten one all by myself as it was that good. As I was following my tray earlier I saw an order of french fries. I impulsively asked the cashier if it was too late to get some. Nope! They were very, very good. I wanted to order a fresh peach crumble since peaches are in season. But I got distracted by the french fries and forgot!

Over lunch the conversation was mostly catching up with Gordon. None of us had seen him since last summer. At the moment he’s not into cycling much and instead is walking four or five miles everyday early in the morning. He’s doing better than I am! Yet he still searches for deals on bicycles online. Go figure! By his own admission he fell into cycling hard and got addicted. One year he did over 16,000 miles. Whew. But things change. I know: it happened to me too. In the mid-1990s I stopped cycling because of life circumstances. Actually, I stopped exercising altogether. I then put on twenty pounds and was either going to have to start exercising again or make a trip to Macy’s to buy all new pants. Gordon isn’t the first Spoker to let cycling lie fallow. We know that it can be much more than simply exercise, a way to meet friends, or recreation. It often hits undercurrents deep within us that we don’t realize or understand at the time and when life changes alter those undercurrents, the siren call of cycling fades and we must move on.
The other main topic was gardening, a topic that Roger never gets tired of. We compared what vegetables we are growing in our gardens. Even though Napa has warmer summers than Orinda, its cooler winters meant our veggies are ahead of Gordon’s. Gordon mentioned that he and David had dry-farmed tomatoes and got spectacular tomatoes. I had heard that the best grapes are those that are dry-farmed and not irrigated. Maybe that works for tomatoes too.
It turns out I didn’t need that peach crumble. I was full. It will have to wait for next time. And there will be a next time because I’ll want to check out the baby back ribs. Steph reminded me that Jimtown Store is now reopened. Oh, we’ll want to ride out that way to check it out even if it’s no longer the pulled pork paradise it once was. (It’s now Asian fusion.) Return to the Jimtown Store!
Over an hour later we parted ways. Maybe the next time we come up to Napa to ride (or eat), we can convince Gordon to do a spin with us again.



































