
It was going to be hot in Contra Costa and we were planning to drive to Castroville to ride the Monterey Bay Trail down to Asilomar and back, about 42 miles. The night before we decided the prospect of a two-hour drive in traffic and then a return trip in even worse traffic was just too debilitating. Where could we ride instead and not get deep fried in the heat? Bay side somewhere? Ah, Tiburon! I suppose if I still lived in SF I would have picked a different destination. But we don’t ride to Tiburon often—maybe twice a year—and we had not ridden on the Richmond-San Rafael bridge since the MTC acquiesced to car users and demoted the bike lane on the bridge to limited hours, Thursday afternoon to Sunday night.
One of the nice things about not doing a club ride or not having to meet friends for a ride is that the only schedule you have is entirely self-imposed. Got up late? No problem, there’s no one you have to meet. We took our time getting ready and left the house piano piano. Strangely enough, if we had been doing the East Bay Tiburon loop to meet the Jersey Ride, we could have left the house even later.
The drive to Point Richmond on a weekend morning was great. It was early enough that we could actually get through the Maze and the Eastshore without getting bogged down in traffic. Parking in Point Richmond was also a snap. We got a spot next to the protected bike lane.
Although weekends bring out cyclists to the RSR, the “droves” of bikes pales to anything you’d see on the Golden Gate Bridge. My guess is that a typical Saturday probably nets a few hundred cyclists for the entire day. That would be far less than an hour’s worth on the GGB. You can never complain about bike congestion on the RSR. In the past we’d see a mere handful but today we actuallly saw about a dozen as we crossed. Other than a few more cyclists it was pretty much like every other RSR crossing we’ve done: the constant drone of cars on your left reminding you that you’re a mote in traffic; the cross wind from the Golden Gate; the beautiful view of Richardson Bay. The length of the RSR is nothing to sneeze at—about six miles—and big portion of that is a long downhill to Marin. If we were on a proper street, we’d be blazing well above 20 MPH. But the cross wind coupled with the narrowness of the bike lanes and the oncoming bikes tempers our desire to speed. That terrible head-on fatal collision of a cyclist and an illegal e-moto on the Queensboro bridge was in the back of my mind. Of course at the bottom of the decline there were fishermen hanging their lines off the side of the bridge. This always irks me. Fishing from the bridge is illegal, period. Enforcement? Doesn’t exist. These dudes have been there forever. The bike lanes are narrow to begin with and they don’t give a shit, with their tackle, gear boxes, and long poles. Wait until there’s a collision, then we’ll see enforcement.
On the frontage road, Francisco Boulevard, originally there was no infrastructure for bikes. Now there is a wide sidewalk as well as a bike lane. With cars roaring off the exit lane of the bridge, I’m not terribly confident about the bike lane, which is unprotected. Roger took the bike lane, I took the sidewalk. You continue a short distance to a left turn onto the overpass to San Quentin. There you have to be careful again because cars aren’t expecting bikes to suddenly turn across the lanes even though a crosswalk is marked.
The climb on the overpass felt burdensome for some reason. That was ominous since we were just starting our ride. After the descent past San Quentin we joined the weekend car traffic heading either to the Larkspur farmer’s market or further west on Sir Francis Drake. There’s no bike lane here; you scurry in the parking lane until you encounter parked cars and then it’s best to take the lane. It’s not too bad because the stop lights seem to back up the traffic. Then there’s an awkward left turn at a crosswalk to get to the overpass to Corte Madera. The whole thing is just not designed for bikes; there’s no convenient way to do this except use the beg button at a crosswalk. There is a convoluted way through Larkspur Landing to get to the Cal Hill overpass. But you might as well just use the crosswalk since it’s faster.
Once across the busy lanes we were on the MUP, went past the e-bike shop to the traffic circle. This traffic circle always confuses me. All three of the choices eventually head south. But the first one actually goes up to the Cal Hill tunnel, the second one turns on the MUP for Corte Madera Creek. The third one and last one is the correct one to Corte Madera. I suppose if I rode this more often it would become second nature. As an aside, this path used to be an extremely narrow walkway, barely one person wide and I always approached it with trepidation. If you met someone in the middle, either a ped or another cyclist, you had to do a tight do-si-do, sometimes having to lift your bicycle up so there would be enough space to pass. Now it’s wide and spacious, finally!
On the Redwood Highway [sic] heading south we ran into lots of cyclists heading to Paradise Drive. They were young adults heading out for a pleasant morning ride around Tiburon just like us. They were on modest bikes and zoomed ahead of us. Ah, youth.
The Redwood Highway goes around the Corte Madera Shopping Center and surprise, surprise, it was being re-paved. Although very smooth we decided to take the MUP to avoid mucking up our tires. Now that we know it’s smooth we shall skip the MUP in the future.
Once on Paradise it was all overly familiar, which is why I started noticing how things had or had not changed over the past couple of decades. There used to be the Paradise Market in the first and only strip mall on Paradise. It was a family owned business. Now it’s a Nugget Market. The square footage of the place was likely too small to be of interest to Safeway or Lucky, so it became game for one of the smaller chains. Consolidation is happening in every type of business—real estate, food markets, coffee, auto repair, veterinarian services, etc.
Paradise Drive has hardly changed at all in the 43 years I’ve plied it. It still has crappy asphalt and nary an improvement is to be seen. I was shocked to see that there was a new home being constructed. There was an empty, available lot on Paradise or did the owner just raze the previous home and start from scratch? When we got to Trestle Glen I didn’t recognize it because the fire station was gone. It was being rebuilt and was just bare wood and plywood. Roger and I talked about Paradise Drive: the damn road hasn’t seen a paving in decades. Back in the day it was notably degenerate asphalt, not uncommon for a ‘rural’ road’ but kind of strange for a wealthy community like Tiburon. At one point one of the utilities dug a long trench in the middle of the southbound lane and then refilled it and did a terrible job. The lane then had a lumpy, uneven center that we tried to avoid as much as possible. And then at some point Paradise must have been repaved because that ugliness disappeared. Since that time not much has been done and Paradise is again a bumpy ride. The big difference is that back then I was on 20mm tires—ouch!—and now I’m on 30mm tires. It still hurts though, just less.
You zoom through cove after cove. They all look the same. When I get to the Tiburon Romberg Center, I know we’re not far from Tiburon. When I worked at SFSU, we had a department retreat there. Otherwise I would never have set foot on it since I was not involved with the university’s marine biology program. It’s a pleasant venue set in the middle of nowhere. Perhaps that’s the point: you have no distractions.
Another familiar part of riding Paradise is the friendly competition of cyclists overtaking or trying to overtake the next cyclist. That happened to us although admittedly it didn’t take much energy. A bro on a carbon bike was catching up. Seeing him my mirror I started pedaling harder. Back in the day I would have hit the gas and gone off the front. But not today—I wasn’t feeling it; these days there isn’t much ‘gas’ to be had. He caught up and drafted until the last hill before Tiburon. I let him pass and then he slowed down. I have no idea what that was about. Maybe he just wanted to see if he could catch me.
We rolled into Tiburon and there were cyclists lazing on the lawn in the sunshine. The Point Tiburon condos looked gorgeous in the sun. What would it be like to live in Tiburon? Tiburon gets a good amount of sunshine and it’s not often hot. But you’d be riding Paradise Drive/Tiburon Boulevard every day—is that a nightmare or what? I suppose that is a good thing because there are worse places to ride; a couple of laps around Tiburon would make a good workout. Tiburon is small; if you need a hardware store, a shoe repair, or a McDo, you’ll have to go elsewhere.
We passed Caffe Acri, which was busy. This used to be the place that the Jersey Ride stopped at for lunch in the early Aughts. It was the cyclists’ hangout. But we had a couple of incidents where the staff got huffy or miffed at us (or was it just with all cyclists?) and we didn’t feel welcome there anymore and so it was back to Shark Deli. The old Shark Deli location is still mysteriously empty. I thought it was a real loss when it closed; the sandwiches were good and the outdoor tables were great on a sunny day. In the early days of the club we went there for our midride break. Why it hasn’t been taken over by another business seems odd. Perhaps the owners are holding out for a rezoning so that they can convert it into housing, or that the rent they are asking is just very high.
I also noticed a bike rental shop on the main drag, Demo Sport. That’s a great idea: you can take the ferry to Tiburon and get a rental hybrid or e-bike instead of renting at Blazing Saddles in SF and schlepping your bike over. How long has it been there?
Instead of getting food at Woodlands Market, which has become the JR lunch stop, we went to Rustic Bakery. There was already a group of cyclists in the inner courtyard but we found a table. There was a line inside. I got a premade sandwich and Roger got a feta-tomato croissant, which he said was delicious; my sandwich was just okay. Next time I’ll get something they make on the spot. There was a steady stream of customers walking in—doggers, joggers, and other locals. Downtown Tiburon doesn’t have much choice when it comes to espresso other than Rustic or Acri, and Acri is the tourist spot. So Rustic. Admittedly Acri has the view but Rustic has the vibe. That there is no Starbucks or Peet’s here must be because there just isn’t available space. Hey, what about the Shark Deli spot? The nearest Peet’s is in the Cove Shopping Center as you turn onto Tiburon Boulevard. That’s where the old Cove Bike Shop used to be. That place was mountain bike central in the early days; the Koski family owned that shop and I still have a Koski designed fork on my old Bridgestone mtb.
There was, to my surprise, a new(er) bike shop next to Rustic, Marin Service Course. The bikes they sell don’t look like they’re on the bargain side–Cervelos, Enves, Pinarellos. But if you run into a problem while riding Paradise, you can get your bike looked at and possibly repaired while you get lunch.
On the way out we were joined by lots of other cyclists, all going faster than we. The MUP was more crowded than I remember it being in the past. On Tiburon Boulevard I noticed an ‘improvement’: as you approach the freeway the right lane becomes the right-turn-only entrance ramp lane. That design is dangerous. Normally you just move over into the next lane, take it, and you continue onto the overpass. Traffic engineers thought it would be better to install a marked bike lane that has you continue to the pedestrian crosswalk. On paper that might seem like a good idea. But the reality is that this is more dangerous because cars accelerating onto the ramp are not looking for pedestrians or cyclists—do they ever look?—plus they are going faster. Crosswalk markings are just background noise for drivers. This is a great place to get smashed if you’re not careful. It’s better to take the adjacent lane, force cars to slow down, and avoid getting hit from the side. Who comes up with these ‘improvements’? Oh right, traffic ‘engineers’ [sic].
We decided to go up Camino Alto instead of Horse hill. I hadn’t gone up CA in at least a year. I used to go up it frequently and I knew the gears I needed to be in and the speed I could maintain: 14 MPH. That’s no longer possible. But it’s still an enjoyable ascent as long as it’s not crowded with car traffic because it’s consistent (other than one very short bump at Vasco that always has me standing up). At the top is the gate to the former estate of Bill Graham, the concert promoter who died in a horrendous helicopter crash in 1991. I’ve always wondered who owns that place now.
The descent I have always found is a challenge. Partly it’s courage, partly it’s the oncoming cars, and partly it’s technique. It’s not steep at all. But the hairpins are pretty sharp, the sightlines only so-so, and they’re always in the shadows because of the tall redwoods. You can’t discern easily if a car is coming up and whether it might be crossing the centerline to pass an uphill cyclist. That’s Driver’s Ed 101, right? Don’t cross a double center line and don’t cross a centerline on a blind curve. This is a problem on our street: coming up to our manse there is a 8% grade on a hairpin so naturally we can’t cycle up it quickly (i.e. faster than 8-9 MPH). Other than possibly slowing down–heaven forbid!–cars often just pass us heedlessly. A few times a car coming down has had to hit the brakes to avoid a collision with the idiot who is passing us. The idiot driver making the stupid pass usually dives back into our lane. My nightmare is that they then sideswipe us. It hasn’t happened. Yet. Even when we take the lane, the cars still pass us, which proves that lack of judgment knows no limit. So I was careful on the Camino Alto descent. I was soon passed by three mountain bikers who railed the hairpins. Wider tires make descending a dream. When I’m on 42mm tires, those tires feel like they’re gluing me to the road and I feel very steady. But not today.
There are several ways to get back to the RSR. We rarely take the shortest route and instead we head up Magnolia to Marin General Hospital to catch the MUP along Corte Madera Creek. A woman cycling in street clothes was in front of us and she kept looking back like she thought we were going to pass us, probably a reasonable inference given we were in typical road drag. But we weren’t in a rush at all. We were quite happy to follow her up Magnolia to the bridge over the creek to the MUP. This MUP is pleasant; you can watch the boaters and the SUPers on the creek. You pass by the boathouse of the Marin Rowing Association and if you’re lucky you get to see their team sculling on the creek. At the end you enter a narrow wooden walkway to the bicycle traffic circle I mentioned earlier. We caught up with a woman on an e-bike going casually. At the traffic circle a dude on his phone, who wasn’t looking, walked right into her. If she was going 8 MPH that would have been a high estimate since she saw him and had to brake. She made a comment about bikes having the right of way. (I’m sure that’s not correct!) But I got her point: “Dude, get off the phone and look where you’re going!” He stopped and gave her a look that said, “Bitch, you think you’re telling me what to do??” He then screamed something unintelligible at her. It was hardly an apology. Yeah, you’re a real piece of work.
Heading east we were on the MUP all the way to San Quentin where you then have to use the “bike lane”, which is just a glorified shoulder. The designers of this route had a problem: there isn’t a safe way to get back to the RSR. They turned the shoulder into a bike lane simply by labeling it and putting up some plastic bollards. However the lane is the entrance to I-580 East and cars are zipping along pretty fast by now. Plus, do they maintain the bike lane? Do I even have to ask that question since there is no bike lane in history that ever gets more than cursory maintenance at intervals demarcated by years? Those bollards prevent the use of a standard street sweeper. The lane is filled with all kinds of detritus—rocks, dirt, litter, pieces of plastic bollards, broken glass, you name it. I had to ride over some glass. But hey, I’m not going to veer into the traffic lane when cars are already hitting 50 MPH. But it gets worse: you then are actually on I-580 East in the “bike lane”. The designers did have the forethought to put a rumble strip between it and the traffic lane but that’s about it. So bike infrastructure equals paint on the road, a measly sign, plastic bollards, and a rumble strip. Is that Jim Crow or what? Yeah, don’t waste money on DEI bike lanes because it’s unfair. One day a cyclist is going to get creamed there. I hope it isn’t us. We always hit the afterburners to get off the freeway ASAP.
The other option, which the designers knew was dangerous, is at the top to cross over the two lanes of traffic onto the bicycle lane on the westbound overpass. We see cyclists do it all the time because the thought of going on the debris-filled shoulder to a freeway is so counterintuitive. In exchange for using the bikeway you have to hazard getting creamed by cars accelerating onto the freeway and cars exiting the freeway at high speed. Pick your poison!
After that the prospect of the long ascent on the RSR in a headwind seemed welcome.
As I’ve opined before, returning on the RSR is never easy. We were at the end of our ride and not fresh, and we had to do this ascent. You can see the entire length in front of you, which is good because you know where it ends. It’s also disheartening because the time doesn’t go by quickly. By now I was flagging. I hadn’t been feeling chipper all morning and I now had two efforts under my belt—racing the bro on Paradise and climbing Camino Alto at speed. I also made a newby error: I didn’t drink enough. As I started the incline I knew I was in trouble and I went into a low gear. Then I sensed I was close to cramping and went into an even lower gear for survival. Roger went in front to cut the headwind and sensibly slowed way down so I wouldn’t get shot out the back. He told me later he kept the speed at 8 MPH. It didn’t seem that fast at the time! I cramped and had to stop to inhale all of my water bottle, which I had barely touched all day. Neither of us had pickle juice. Cyclists passed us one by one. When the cramps subsided we continued slowly and sensibly to the top. The RSR actually has two humps but that second climb is very short. On the descent to Richmond I coasted the entire way and kept my legs relaxed. We were then in another crowd of cyclists heading back to the East Bay.
The final section is a descent to street level. The designers of the bikeway put in about fifteen or so speed bumps presumably so that cyclists won’t race down. But they aren’t obvious speed bumps as you’d see on a street. Instead they’re more like undulations. They’re painted black so you can’t see the undulation clearly but you can certainly feel them. When the RSR first opened up, one cyclist raced down, didn’t see or know about the speed bumps, crashed and died. I hope his family sued the shit out of the MTC. That’s what we live with daily: bike infrastructure designed to kill us. There still isn’t a sign to warn cyclists.
Of course the best thing about the East Bay Tib loop is that we avoid the craziness on the Golden Gate Bridge entirely. The RSR despite my complaints is a much safer crossing for cyclists. The view albeit pleasant is not as great as the Golden Gate. But it’s a great way to get to Tiburon headwind notwithstanding.















