
This year’s Apple Blossom ride took place a little late. The best time to see the Gravenstein apple blossoms is about mid-April although it depends on the weather. Cold, wet winters delay the bloom even if climate change is accelerating their display. We couldn’t make time to head up to Sonoma county until now and unfortunately it’s becoming a bad habit of ours to list our rides with short notice. But we currently are not in a position to plan far in advance and just have to make hay when the sun is out. I was determined to get up to western Sonoma county this year as we hadn’t done an Apple Blossom ride since 2022. That’s too long a hiatus!
Being the sole Spoker who still remembers the old days of the club albeit feebly, I am the one left to champion some of the rides we used to do. It’s partly because they are great rides even if out of fashion today and it’s partly because these rides bring back cherished memories of riding with club members who are long gone. I call them my “ghost” rides.
Speaking of “ghosts”, the originator of the Apple Blossom is Michael John (“MJ”), the club’s second president and ChainLetter editor. He was also one of the two Spokers instrumental in the club organizing the first AIDS Bike-A-Thon in 1985 along with the SF AIDS Foundation. For that very reason I’ve been in touch with Michael, who now lives back East, and you shall soon hear his story of how the first AIDS Bike-A-Thon came to be. (The other key person was Bob Humason, the club’s third president, who died of AIDS in 1989.) He first led the Apple Blossom in April 1984 and it has various incarnations all of which involve going from Sebastopol out to Occidental and back. MJ told me that he loved to ride in Sonoma and he wanted to get the club out of Marin where apparently we rode much of the time. MJ later bought a house and moved to Petaluma. He also originated the Guerneville Weekend as well as designed the 1985 Bike-A-Thon route.

Sebastopol is about an hour north. We headed over the Richmond-San Rafael bridge. There wasn’t a single cyclist or pedestrian on the entire span for a sunny Sunday morning, just a couple of fisherman. To argue that the bike path should remain is a hard sell when drivers see no one using the path and are seething at the backup. Make America Drive Again! From there it’s a pleasant roll north to 116, which will take you straight to Sebastopol.
As I’ve mentioned in the past, riding in west Sonoma county is a mixed bag. It’s beautiful, a combination of rolling forested hills and rural ag land mixing fruit trees, vineyards, and cattle. But many of the roads are poorly maintained making for boneshaking adventures. It’s completely schizophrenic: one road is smooth asphalt and the next one is so degenerate that the patches are on top of patches that are on top of other patches. Although car traffic is light most of the time, there are roads that see a lot more cars because they actually go somewhere that people want to go, e.g. the coast. That combined with inconsequential road shoulders almost 100% of the time means that you can’t completely goon out on the scenery and have to keep an eye for fast cars and crater-like potholes.
You also have to like steep hills. The climbs here are not long but they go straight up. Gradients above 10% are not uncommon. But that’s part of the fun—they’re a rollercoaster of slow ups and very fast downs!
We were very much looking forward to this ride. Despite the quality of asphalt the rural ambiance more than makes up for it and is a great solace in these times. If there is development happening out there it is very slow. The impediment is likely the lack of water. With no urban sewage and water system, homes are dependent on septic systems (= needs plenty of land) and wells. Sebastopol is the “big city” in west Sonoma of about 8,000 and even it uses wells for its water supply.
Whatever the water situation in town the hills were still completely green even though almost everything in the East Bay where we live is now a dusky brown.
We always start our rides at the Sebastopol Center for the Arts for the mundane reason that it has plenty of car parking nearby and the adjacent park has a restroom. Heading west on Bodega Ave we turned south on Pleasant Hill Road and become reacquainted with gruesome asphalt; the tire tracks in the lane are decrepit and we have to hug the right edge to escape the bumpiness as cars pass us repeatedly. We’re both on pretty big tires, Roger on 32 mm and I on 42 mm. They make a huge difference on Sonoma asphalt; if you’re riding 28 mm tires, that will do but you’re better off putting on something bigger to cushion all the jarring. A southwest wind is hectoring us. Once we turn onto Bloomfield Road it becomes well paved as we pass by open farm fields with grazing cows. After we turn southwest onto Roblar we get the double-whammy: a challenging headwind and pleasure-seeking drivers zooming to Bodega Bay. Fortunately the sight lines are good for them even if there is no shoulder for us.

Here and there we’re spotting blooming apple trees. The bloom is almost entirely over. But a few trees are behind schedule—late bloomers. It took them a bit longer to ‘come out’. Mostly what we’re seeing is old orchards that are either abandoned or have been replaced mainly by grapes with a few remnant trees as a historical reminder. Gravensteins are hard to get these days. But I remember getting them at the old CO-OP markets—remember them? Probably not because the last one closed in 1988. Probably the only place to get them these days is specialty produce markets like Berkeley Bowl. Gravensteins were once king in the Bay Area; now they are almost completely gone.
It’s just a short hop on Valley Ford, which has even faster traffic but it has a great shoulder. Turning north onto Bloomfield Road the wind suddenly vanishes and we have zero traffic! Whatever Bloomfield was in the past, it’s now a mere dot on the map with a liquor store, what looks to be a closed Masonic Hall, and a volunteer fire department. Now instead of constantly rolling hills we get a real climb. It’s only been about 13 miles but my legs have been sapped by the wind and rollers. I slow to a crawl while Roger rides away from me on Burnside, which is a long, steep grind. We come upon a flock of turkeys in the road, an increasingly common occurrence. Those turkeys can run faster than I can climb! For whatever reason they run up the road rather than off to the side. So I get to see them caper in front me for an entire mile.
Roger is waiting for me at the top. Except that it’s not the top; it’s just one of the “tops” as we roll along a ridge line in the hills. We cross the Bodega Highway, which is a continuation of Bodega Avenue and continue north. Part of me wanted to turn onto Bodega because Wild Flour Bakery is literally just down the road in Freestone. But we continue north on Jonive, which has a short but nasty 13% grade, which is obscured on Google Maps.
At Occidental Road we turn west to get our lunch in town. There’s a climb to a summit and then a big drop into Occidental, which we would have to climb back over after porking out at lunch. By the route we took it was 23 miles to lunch and it would be only 9 to get back to Sebastopol. Needless to say we took the long way to lunch.
We usually stop at the Union Hotel Restaurant but not always. Back in the 1980s when ‘loudmouth’ Mike Reedy got into this ride, he decided to lead it himself and he always stopped at the Union Hotel. Being Italian-American he liked the menu. It was pretty good too so I started going there for lunch when I led it. It has an outdoor courtyard for dining and had a nice selection of pastas, salads, pizzas and main courses. I say “had” because we found out when we arrived that for some reason the menu has been drastically pared down to just a couple of salads, pizzas, and grilled chicken. These are hard times for restaurants especially those in the boonies and not on Restaurant Row. So whatever!
It had been sunny all day but not hot. Sitting in the Union Hotel courtyard was perfect and you could pick your spot either in the sun or in the shade. With our bikes locked up at the gate and in sight, we were set for a pleasant lunch and needed break from all those hills. Although only half-full when we arrived, the courtyard soon filled up. It was Mother’s Day after all and there were several tables of mothers being treated to Sunday brunch. I overheard one table lamenting that Howard’s Station—another Occidental hot spot—the wait for a table was an hour and a half long. They bailed and came to the Union Hotel.

We ended up with pizza and a salad. They had only one size, ostensibly a 12-inch, that measured out larger than that and would have been plenty of food for four. Being just two and not intent upon gorging with a hill after lunch, we left a lot of pizza on the table! Besides being physically large (and delicious), it was verging on Chicago-style with how deeply the cheese had been piled. The generous mushrooms and sausage floating on the sea of melted cheese were extra good. But it’s the wrong time of year to be putting on ‘winter’ fat, alas.
Back on our bikes it was hard slog up the hill with a carb-and-fat bomb in our stomachs. But once at the top it was essentially one long downhill back to Sebastopol. Now with a tailwind we returned to Sebastopol in what seemed like a flash. Back at the car we were still too stuffed to go to Screaming Mimi’s, the traditional post-ride refreshment, for ice cream. If not for the coffee at lunch I would have been in a fat coma.
Marvelous day, a good workout—I was tired!—and a delicious lunch. All told it was just 32 miles but despite what RWGPS said—about 2,400 ft. of elevation gain—we both ended up with over 3,000 ft. on our Garmins. Maybe that will balance out the lunch.
If you’re interested in doing this ride, keep in mind that Caltrans is still working on the Highway Expansion That Will Never End: a long section of 101 by Petaluma is just two lanes each direction and traffic snarls up as the day goes on. If you head up to Sebastopol to ride in west Sonoma keep that in mind. Another option is to take the SMART train from San Rafael to Cotati and simply head west to access the Apple Blossom by getting on Roblar Road. The beautiful countryside awaits.














