
We finally got to ride the Old Haul Road. I’ve been aware of this road for about twenty years but it just never worked out to get over to the coastside of San Mateo county to check it out. On a monster club road ride up Tunitas, down Stage Road, and up Alpine to Skyline six years ago we passed right by the trailhead. I pointed it out to the others but we had other fish to fry that day. I was going to ride it in 2019 but then I crashed and fractured my collarbone. Then the Pandemic hit. Then the CZU Lightning Complex fire shut the road down. Roger and I drove by it a year or so ago and it was definitely closed. It fell off my radar until I started to investigate riding up Gazos Creek Road—another one of my fave dirt roads—into Big Basin now that the park is partially open after the devastating fire took out the entire center of the park where the Visitor Center used to be. It turned out Old Haul Road reopened last November, finally!
So of course we had to ride it. Soon. Now that I’m counting down the remaining time I have on planet Earth I am not delaying getting my bucket list of rides checked off!
Old Haul Road is an old lumber road from the 19th century when redwood logging was apace deforesting the Santa Cruz Mountains. It was created to haul cut redwoods out and eventually by railroad. Hence it’s graded very harmoniously since no trains except cog railways can handle a grade much more than two percent. Old Haul runs from Pescadero Creek Road all the way to Waterman Gap. But much of it is closed since Big Creek Lumber Company still works the area and absolutely will not tolerate trespassers. You can ride Old Haul as far as Portola State Park and then go into the Visitor Center; a short distance past the turn into Portola you hit the private property sign and going beyond is at your own risk. In any case you get about five miles of riding on an isolated, wide dirt road under the redwood canopy before you have to turn around and go back (or do an arduous asphalt climb out of Portola State Park up to Alpine Road).
It’s not too surprising that no one in the club joined us for this ride. Even Roger was wary. In 2019 we both crashed on an ill-fated mountain bike ride on Bolinas Ridge Road and he realized it was too dangerous to risk dirt riding and he’s not been on an off-road [sic] ride since. The club doesn’t have a stout coterie of dirt riders right now. Other than David Millard no one is leading dirt rides and David’s rides have not been well-attended recently. The dirt riding I’ve been doing is just close to home along local fire roads and trails and usually quite short. No one in Different Spokes has become enamored of “gravel” riding, or at least no one talks about it or has shown up with one on a club ride. At best some members are merely “bike curious”. So mixed terrain rides are a hard sell in the club despite “gravel” having its moment in the rest of the cycling world. A look at local clubs’ ride calendars shows that Grizzly Peak is the only one in our neck of the woods that has regular mixed terrain rides; they even had two gravel options on their annual century! So for whatever reason the cycling world seems cleanly divided between mountain bikers and road cyclists and not much in between.
Although the weather was dreadful when we left the manse—horrendous gusts of wind and marine fog roiling over the Oakland hills—by the time we arrived in Pescadero it was sunny and calm. We started our ride at Pescadero Middle/High School, which has become the de facto start for all our rides in that area. It’s just outside of the town and has plentiful parking and a portapotty. Our route started on asphalt on Pescadero Road and continued up to just beyond Loma Mar. The ride up to Loma Mar is a gradual stair-step climb with just a few hundred feet of gain—a nice warm up. To get to the trailhead one can either continue on Pescadero Road to the eastern end of Wurr Road or just past the Loma Mar Store you can turn right onto the western end of Wurr. Wurr is the back road through the residential area of Loma Mar. It’s narrow in places and has a couple of steep pitches. About a mile later you’re at the Hoffman trailhead, the beginning of Old Haul Road. There is a small parking lot there so you can actually drive right up to the trail instead of riding on the road from Pescadero.

Old Haul Road turned out slightly differently than I had expected. I had read it was a steady, gentle downhill from Portola State Park but that turned out not to be strictly true. From the trailhead there are a couple of short 10% pitches and the trail is nowhere near straight for the first mile. It was impossible that this was once a railroad right-of-way. But then the trail suddenly broadens and the grade becomes more consistent. I didn’t measure it but it seemed flat enough for a train to navigate. You climb gently for a couple of miles up to a summit and then descend gently to the trail to enter Portola State Park.
The major differences between road and dirt riding are balance and traction. Most asphalt roads you don’t have to think much about staying upright. But riding on dirt one needs to have a constant awareness of the terrain and how it will affect your steering and traction. Fortunately Old Haul is pretty tame: it’s a true dirt road, not a double-track or a trail. It’s always well over one car lane wide and parts of it are two lanes wide. It truly felt like a boulevard in the redwoods. For the most part the road surface is flat; it’s obviously well maintained. The potholes are minor and few and the road isn’t crowned like it would be on asphalt nor is it banked like some dirt trails.

Besides the unexpected steep pitches our consternation was provoked by visibility, gravel, and tree debris. Almost the entire route is under the redwoods but you’re still coming in and out of bright sunshine into the dim shadows of the trees. As on asphalt roads, entering the shadows you might not see an obstacle. On asphalt it might be a pothole, glass, or debris; here it was tree branches and unexpected sections of loose gravel or mud. The road is likely graveled periodically or at least critical sections are graveled. We would be riding along on nicely packed dirt and then suddenly hit gravel. Some were packed down well and others were quite loose and you never knew which you were going to encounter. On the steep pitches the gravel meant you had to sit and power up; standing would send your rear wheel spinning futilely. On the descents loose gravel meant no braking or going painfully slow, which is what we did!
Despite whatever clean up was done after the CZU Lightning Complex fire, there is a constant rain of tree branches and falling trees. The trail was pretty clean and we didn’t have to deal with any newly downed trees. Periodically there were branches all scattered over the road; most had been run over and broken into pieces. There were a couple of mud sections from water across the road flowing out of the hillside.
When we got to entrance to Portola there was ominous red caution tape around what looked to be a downed metal gate. We started down and immediately stopped: it was fairly steep and Roger was getting freaked. So instead of entering the park, where we would just have turned around and left, we decided to turn around and continue to the end of Old Haul to check out the gate that the Big Creek Lumber controlled.
The end of Old Haul is just a quarter-mile or so beyond Portola. Again the unexpected: I had heard the gate had security cameras to monitor anyone who might trespass but when we got there, there was nothing except a sign indicating it was private property and no trespassing. On the other hand there was a small group of downed trees and perhaps whatever fence or gate had once been there had been damaged and taken down.
We then just turned around and returned the way we had come from the trailhead.

For the entire ride we encountered just a handful of other users and absolutely no cars (i.e rangers). At the start a father and his young son passed us on mountain bikes; a couple of Rapha bros on carbon “gravel” bikes passed us going downhill as we were climbing up; two backpackers were heading out; and several day hikers were enjoying the walk under the shaded canopy.
About a mile from the trailhead the road veers markedly left and goes up steeply. There I saw where the railroad must have gone because a trail actually continues straight ahead. We didn’t explore it to see where it went. There are spur trails on both sides of Old Haul but all the trails heading south to Butano Ridge are currently still closed due to the fire and many of them are not open to bikes. There are a couple of trails north, Town Fire Road and Tarwater, that seem to be open if you’re interested in further exploring.
At the trailhead we decided not to take Wurr Road back and instead just take Pescadero Road, which was just to the right of the trailhead. After a mile or so we arrived at Loma Mar Store and per usual had a delicious repast. Unlike recent visits this Sunday it was not crowded at all. There were just a few cars in the lot and no motorcycles; we were the only cyclists there. Palates refreshed we headed back to the car. Roger was evidently smelling the barn or was just glad to be on solid asphalt as he hammered back despite the hefty headwind, I desperately hanging onto his wheel.
Would I go back? Sure, especially to explore the other trails and just to spend a pleasant, quiet day in the redwoods. There is also the possibility of a loop ride as long as you are willing to climb out of Portola State Park, something I haven’t done only a couple of times in my life because it’s very steep and remote. But hey, it’s a thought!










