
On Fathers Day, Roger and I rode on Point San Pedro Road through China Camp State Park. We were scouting a route and dining possibilities as a prelude to leading a club ride. The result unfortunately is that I was not impressed by the route; in fact it was like the scales fell off my eyes and I saw these roads for what they are and not what I had remembered or imagined.
Since most Spokers live in the City, getting to China Camp involves trekking across the Golden Gate Bridge and making one’s way north through San Rafael to the State Park. But we were planning to start in the East Bay in Point Richmond and traversing the Richmond-San Rafael Bridge in order to avoid the mishegoss on the GGB on weekend afternoons. The general route was to take the RSR, get through San Rafael somehow, go around China Camp, and then get to downtown San Rafael for midday refreshment. There were several possibilities for a return depending on the length.
The Richmond-San Rafael Bridge (RSR)
It’s been an unexpected gift to be able to cycle across the RSR to Marin. The novelty of it hadn’t worn off. Until now. The RSR path opened on November 16, 2019—just four and a half years ago. In that time we’ve probably used it about a dozen times and always on weekends. It’s marvelous to be able to get to Marin just by bike and I was tickled pink at the prospect of being able to cycle over and catch the SMART train to get to Santa Rosa to do some of the roads on the Wine Country Century and then return without using a car.
As you know there is controversy about the bridge with car drivers and their lobbying groups wanting to eliminate the multi-use path and have it revert to (just another) car lane. I won’t bore you with the arguments pro and con. (As if you cared anyway.) But I will say this: the experience of crossing the RSR is generally an experiential bummer. The MUP is a converted car lane and if you use it when there is substantial traffic, ie. daytime, you are exposed to a deafening amount of car noise. It’s louder because vehicles are passing at freeway speeds, 60-80 MPH, rather than normal street speed. Yes, it’s no different in kind from any of the other bridges. But the proximity and being on road level seems to make the noise even louder. The only thing that would help—besides less traffic—would be a delightful traffic jam that forced everyone to slow down. Of course then you’d get to relish the extra vehicle emissions. Sunday the traffic was forceful and unremitting when we started at 9:30 AM. Our return in the afternoon was only slightly less wearing simply because by then the toll plaza on the eastern side was jammed and backed up, which seemed to reduce the traffic somewhat. Whatever past bliss I experienced by skimming along the surface of Richardson Bay in the early morning was completely obliterated by wrenching car noise.
I can’t think of a single time that our return eastward on the RSR has not had a grinding headwind and today was no different. How can that be? Well, on a typical day the prevailing wind is westerly and comes through the Golden Gate and turns north to go up the Delta into the Valley. So on the RSR the wind is primarily a crosswind, which as you know feels like a headwind when you’re cycling. On top of that, the grade on the bridge is a grind. Oh, and the bridge is hella long. So, headwind plus uphill grade plus mega length—you do the math. By the time we were heading home I was already a bit tired and having to slog uphill into that wind had me reaching for a lower gear, hunkering down, and gritting my teeth. Like a castaway sailor I was ever so glad to reach solid land!
All of this had me thinking—heresy!—that if the Bay Conservation and Development Commission eventually decides to end the MUP experiment on the RSR, I’m going to be disappointed but I won’t be shedding copious tears. In other words I like the idea a whole lot but the reality is not so great. Still if you haven’t ridden across the RSR I strongly recommend that you do it if only to have the experience once before it is taken away from you.
One more thing: on Fathers Day the toll plaza was absolutely jammed to the gills in the afternoon. I don’t know how long the backup was but it was not a short one. If you think for a moment that a possible RSR multi-use path compromise might involve removing it only during the work week, you have your head in the sand. The jams are there on weekends too and car drivers are going to lobby for the MUP to be removed completely regardless of whether the MUP is actually the cause of the jams or not.
Getting Through San Rafael
Highway 101 transects San Rafael and whether that was the case before 101 was expanded or not, de facto the eastern side of 101 has a lot of light industry and low income development while the western side is the “suburban” side. Heavy truck traffic and speeding rule the roadway on the eastern side. And that’s the side you have to get through to get to China Camp. The fact that the area is littered with ejecta from trucks and cars as well as general neglect makes this section of the route feel you’re going to the dump to get rid of your garbage.
The problem is that there’s no short way to get across San Rafael Creek to get to China Camp except by going all the way west to 101. But your Calvary isn’t over yet. After you cross Point San Pedro Road, which follows the north shore of San Rafael Creek, is a four-lane boulevard with cars zooming by at 40+ MPH. Literally the saving grace is a bike lane, which is where several drivers delightfully parked their cars in order to go about their Sunday business forcing us to repeatedly hop into the vehicle lane and pray we weren’t smashed.
Back in the day I rode to China Camp, or at least I think I did. I have two recollections. In preparation for an AIDS Bike-A-Thon I did a club ride from SF to go around China Camp; this was probably 1990. I’m pretty sure this is a memory of a real event–I’m not always sure these days!–because I have the recollection of riding with Jamie Henderson, an old club member, and probably his now-husband Ray O’Loughlin and my partner at the time, Tom Walther. I recall us getting lost in San Rafael trying to figure out how to get to China Camp. But as we rode on San Pedro Point Road, which is the only way to get to China Camp, I had absolutely no recollection of any of the scenery. Was it possible that 30+ years had erased everything recognizable? What I do recall is that the road was semi-industrial (which it is at the beginning) and had car traffic (which it still does). But it seemed all different now.
China Camp State Park
My memory continued to be faulty as we rode towards China Camp. None of it was recognizable, which is probably a combination of change over 30 years plus my increasingly creaky memory. Until we hit the first real hill with ugly bumps on the downhill side. Then it came back to me: I was here before. That was immediately eclipsed at seeing picturesque Bayside Park, which is a long, narrow esplanade by the shore. Something so captivating and it was like I had never seen it before. (Maybe I hadn’t!) This continued all the way around the Park. I was drawing a complete blank. Nothing looked familar.
My second recollection is that I rode on the dirt trails in China Camp with someone in the club many years ago. Most likely we had driven up to China Camp rather than riding on our mountain bikes. Yet seeing China Camp did not provoke a memory even when we went by the Visitors Center. Where exactly did we ride our dirt bikes, I wondered. At some point in the 1990s the club decided to move the annual picnic to China Camp State Park probably because everyone was tired of the fog and chill in Golden Gate Park. It was there for quite a few years yet I never attended one of them. Consequently I never rode or drove up at any other time and thus have no other recollections.
Sunday the traffic was very light through the park. Point San Pedro Road is in pretty good condition. But what struck me was the multitude of mountain bikers at China Camp. The trails are easy to get to and considered good for beginners who are trying their hand at singletrack riding. The one time I rode there I had a blast. Of course it’s all different now: there were no full suspension bikes back then and today that was practically all we saw being unloaded from cars. And there were lots of them!
Eventually we made your way out of China Camp to the Marin Civic Center and then somehow we had to get over the hill to San Rafael. Back in the day the main way was an odd path that was immediately next to 101. If you’ve ever wanted to avoid taking Camino Alto over to Corte Madera there is a similar bike path next to 101 that dumps you on Meadowsweet Drive. This one was like that. But now it had changed apparently due to the construction of the SMART train whose right-of-way sits adjacent to the path. It certainly is much more developed because of it and is in great condition. This trail takes you right into downtown San Rafael where we were going to get lunch.
San Rafael
I’ve never, ever spent appreciable time in downtown San Rafael. It’s always been a dot I’ve gone through trying to get out of or back to the City. But today we were looking for a lunch stop for a club ride and it had to have an outdoor patio. Fourth Street seems to be the main drag and has a lot of places to eat. There’s a Crepevine on 4th with a small patio in front. Even though we were arriving well before lunch time, the warm, sunny weather and Fathers Day meant it was full. Just around the corner was a Mexican joint, Taqueria Bahia. It had an outdoor dining area and it was completely empty. So we ended up stopping there and despite my trepidation at its run-of-the-mill demeanor the food turned out to be quite good. The plus was the portions were large; the minus was the portions were large.
This part of San Rafael had a little bit of everything. By that I mean a crazy dude screaming profanities, cool millenials looking for a bite, some tie-dye (hey, it’s Marin!), Central Americans hanging out everywhere, and plenty of Marinites doing what they do best, ie. shopping or dining while trying to ignore the crazy dude screaming profanities. At least the area is fairly well-kept and didn’t reek of urine. Or feces. And I didn’t see any tents on the sidewalks. Like some other city we know.
Lovely Wolfe Grade
By now it was getting hot—not atypical for San Rafael at this time of the year—so we skedaddled. I had in mind three different possible returns. The shortest was just to head east and make our way under 101 until we got to Francisco Street, which is the frontage road to 580, and take it to the bridge. But coming over in the morning we saw that a big portion of it was currently under reconstruction, all for the better since there seems to be an extra-wide sidewalk/MUP being put in. Francisco gets a lot of truck traffic, so having a MUP really makes sense. We decided to skip it and take a longer route going over Wolfe Grade, avoiding Francisco entirely. I hadn’t been over Wolfe since the early 1990s. This is a straight up and down road to get over a hill; it’s ridiculously steep but short. It’s not particularly pleasant and has no redeeming feature other than being direct. The shoulder varies between tolerable to nonexistent and it is moderately trafficked. (Which is why I’ve ridden it maybe less than two or three times altogether!) Coming after a big lunch Wolfe was a regrettable decision. It is short but if you’re lacking the horsepower it’s just a grueling ordeal. I wasn’t so quick anymore with a burrito bomb in my stomach. But we got over it and then it was simply making our way back to the RSR by the pleasant Corte Madera Creek MUP and then go past San Quentin. This section we’ve done many times and it’s pleasant and strangely bucolic for something in the middle of the suburbs.
Who’s Zoomin’ Who?
Once past San Quentin you climb a small hill and take the entrance ramp to I-580. A lot of cyclists ignore the signage and don’t realize that the entrance ramp is the bike path and instead they attempt to cross over SIr Francis Drake at Andersen Drive to catch the separated bikeway coming from the bridge. Besides being unnecessary it’s a dangerous maneuver because there is no stop sign for oncoming traffic just exiting the freeway at high speed. Some cyclist is going to get killed there one day if not already. In any case we merged onto the freeway and it’s a hoot. It’s one of the few places in California that legally allow cyclists to ride on the freeway. The bike lane is marked and part of it has plastic bollards. But there is no physical separation between cyclists and car traffic. So maybe one day some cyclist is going to get killed on the freeway.
The RSR, Part 2
By now I’m tired and it’s headwind city. It’s a steady climb for about two miles with no relief until you get to the top of the span. There is no protection from the wind. The only thing worse would be if the winds were unpredictably gusty. (That happens too!) The RSR MUP is a bidirectional path with just a painted dashed line separating eastbound and westbound cyclists. It’s not very wide. Westbound cyclists get a crazy fast descent, almost like a bobsled chute. Which means eastbound cyclists get to contemplate a moment of doubt each time they espy a downhill cyclist: is that cyclist really in control, are they going to bean me, and how fast are they going anyway?? The positive is that unlike the Golden Gate Bridge, which is a heady stew of hordes of cyclists blasting past each other in tight quarters with nary a care for safety, the RSR has so little bike traffic even on a weekend that the risk pales. I sure hope there isn’t a Strava segment on the RSR! There are occasional walkers; the other obstacle is people fishing off the bridge (!). Some people think the RSR MUP is a pier and they might as well go out on a sunny Sunday, park their butts on some crates along with their coolers and gear, and spend a nice morning trying to hook some mercury-laden bay fish for dinner whilst humming along to the freeway music in the background. I suppose they’re no worse to crash into than the copious furniture on the GG bridge and certainly a bit softer. Today there was just one group of people fishing on the bridge and the total number of cyclists coming at us could have been counted on one hand.
They weren’t there today but at other times we have also seen the Couple Taking Photos As If No One Else Was Around Them. You know them, right? They’re the ones abruptly stepping backwards into the middle of the narrow MUP too preoccupied with their phone to realize that they are about to be beaned by a cyclist. Fortunately the walk across the RSR is very long so pedestrians are a rarity. However we did encounter the Cyclists Taking A Selfie…and they were doing it on the south side of the bridge! Think about that: the south side has the scenic view of SF, the GG Bridge, Alcatraz, etc. And it also has no sidewalk. To get there they had to run across all the lanes of cars travelling at freeway speed to stand on a narrow ledge to take their selfie. And then somehow get back to the MUP. We saw them sprint across the lanes and leap over the barrier just in time not to get killed and high-fiving themselves smugly. I bet the drivers’ adrenaline also went up.
Grumpy
As with any ordeal it’s merely a matter of time before it eventually ends. We were back in Point Richmond and at the car. Why was I so disappointed with the planned route? I think part of it is a change that’s been happening slowly to what I expect out of a ride. These days I’m more interested in riding rural (or “semi-rural”) environments and away from cars. Much of this ride is quite urban—the RSR and the east side of San Rafael. I also realized that the reason why I’ve hardly ever ridden to China Camp State Park is because getting there isn’t as pleasant as going to other parts of Marin, even other suburban parts. Will I go back to China Camp by bike? I’ll have to let time kill more memory cells…














